Nord User Forum

I've just purchased a Stage Classic at an excellent price because it has some damage. It was dropped and one cheek block is cracked and the metal next to the Nord name on the back is bent.

I've done a few minor repairs on my Electros that required opening the case, and I believe what I need first is to know which screws to remove on the bottom of the instrument. Then any suggestions on how to straighten the metal most easily without marring the surface would be appreciated. Presently I'm considering using a moderately wide wooden carpenter's clamp.

Hi,

Bren did it , and a video, here

Marc wrote a document and shared it , here.

Hope it helps,
Good luck,
Cheers,
Frantz.

Thanks Frantz,

Very helpful stuff once I get the lid off. However the underside of the Stage 88 Classic is somewhat different, so if anyone knows, I'd appreciate an explanation of which screws to remove to get me started. I can experiment with that, but I'd prefer not to.

Amongst the lots of screws on the bottom, I expect there to be two rows going from left to right, probably with 5-7 screws per row; those mount the keybed to the bottom of the chassis and you don't need to unscrew those. Depending on the size (number of keys), you'll have a 'stand-off' (or maybe two for the 88) going from the top panel to the bottom of the case - this is the single screw roughly in the center of the Stage (I had the 'Compact' though).

I think I just unscrewed the side panels, the screws on the rear fixing the top panel to the bottom and the mentioned 'stand-off' screw, I think.

Thanks mjbrands,

That sounds good. I did watch Bren's excellent video, and I saw the type of standoffs you mentioned, so they shouldn't be too difficult to find.

Incidentally, I don't have the keyboard yet, it's being shipped. So I won't be able to get started until at least the end of this week. I'll document everything, and share it of course.

Maybe it would be a good idea to get a replacement wood piece, maybe from Clavia or from the technical service. I would not be surprised if the wood pieces give some extra rigidity to the whole chassis. If broken (or glued) it will remain a weak point and the chassis might distort easily when transporting it, etc.

Thanks Mr G,

Replacing the end piece is definitely something to consider. However I don't think the structural integrity of the chassis depends on the end pieces very much, if at all. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

michael_C1 wrote:Replacing the end piece is definitely something to consider. However I don't think the structural integrity of the chassis depends on the end pieces very much, if at all. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

This is also my impression; I had a Stage 2 SW73 and the wooden sides seemed mostly for 'show', though the screws going into them also fixed the top part to the bottom (if I remember correctly).

Fixing the wooden sides (if they're only dented/scratches) should not be that hard, I think.

Thanks again mjbrands,

The end panel will need a bit more work because it's cracked right through, but it should be doable.

It might not be expensive to ask a dealer,service center,
repair shop, or distributor the cost of end pieces & evaluate from there.
Cosmetically, thery'e nice to have. Structural integrity I don't know.
I used to keep a pair of end caps around for a couple keyboards that
I was using frequently. If you decide you want to move the board that's
different than just letting it sit on a stand.
I believe the larger boards like an 88 do tend to flex when you pick them
up from their own shear weight.

Good luck,