Nord Stage 4 - Fuses and voltage change

[magnetizado]

Hello everybody. I recently acquired the Nord Stage 4 which, by factory default, came with a voltage of 220V and I had to change it to 110V.
However, I have a question about the fuse. For 220V, the Stage came with a 300mA fuse. Following the logic, I should use a 600mA fuse for the 110V voltage, correct?
I was in doubt because in previous models a fuse of 125mA was used for 220V and 250mA for 110V. Does the Stage 4 300mA fuse also work with 110v or does it really need a 600mA?

[magnetizado]

No, please see here: general-nord-forum-f29/converting-nords ... 23084.html
It seems that your instrument came with the wrong fuse!

[Klondyke77]

No, please see here: general-nord-forum-f29/converting-nords ... 23084.html
It seems that your instrument came with the wrong fuse!

The mentioned post is from 2022 so it covers NS3.
I dont't think the board came with a wrong fuse - it is likely that NS4 comsumes more power and so needs a fuse with higher current.

[Klondyke77]

Hello everybody. I recently acquired the Nord Stage 4 which, by factory default, came with a voltage of 220V and I had to change it to 110V.
However, I have a question about the fuse. For 220V, the Stage came with a 300mA fuse. Following the logic, I should use a 600mA fuse for the 110V voltage, correct?
I was in doubt because in previous models a fuse of 125mA was used for 220V and 250mA for 110V. Does the Stage 4 300mA fuse also work with 110v or does it really need a 600mA?

If you switch to 110V it is likely that the 300mA fuse will blow - either immediatly or later. You should change it to 600mA.

[magnetizado]

OK, better than guessing if the post does not apply to the NS4 or whether it consumes more than previous models, in previous Stage models there is a sticker at the back that mentions the set voltage from factory, the fuse type to use and the wattage. What does the sticker say regarding the three values?

Or perhaps other NS4 owners can tell what their fuses are.

[magnetizado]

It seems that the 2022 post is correct. At the Thomann site you can rotate the instrument 360 degrees and see the sticker I was mentioning: 230V, 25W, Fuse 125mA
So according to the sticker the NS4 does not consume any more than previous models and also seems to have the wrong fuse for 220V (it should have been 125mA and not 300mA).
You were lucky not to blow the components instead of the fuse if anything went wrong.

Screenshot.png (332.88 KiB) Viewed 3332 times

It would be nice if somebody can confirm what the sticker in their instrument says just for completeness.

[magnetizado]

There was a sticker with just the information "220V" overlaying that description. I removed this sticker and was able to access the information that a 300mA fuse is used for 115V. So the fuse is correct and Stage 4 follows the same characteristics as the previous ones.

Thank you all so much for your help!!!!!!!

[magnetizado]

It is correct now
Just to make sure, you opened it and switched the transformer to 110V? Yes?
I guess that whoever owned it before, bought at 110V model, changed the transformer to 220 but did not change the fuse (some like to live dangerously ).

[magnetizado]

It is correct now
Just to make sure, you opened it and switched the transformer to 110V? Yes?
I guess that whoever owned it before, bought at 110V model, changed the transformer to 220 but did not change the fuse (some like to live dangerously ).

Yes, I performed the voltage change internally, directly at the transformer.
I even made a video showing the procedure and I also took the opportunity to show the side view of the mechanics of the NS4 HA keys.

Well, the previous voltage change (from 110V to 220V) must have been done by the importer (I am the first owner), because by default the equipment is delivered here in Brazil at 220V. Anyway, the biggest risk would be if it came with the 125mA fuse, which would probably blow when connected to 110V. Using the 300mA to 200V I think the fuse would have plenty of capacity to support the power of the equipment.

[Rodkeys]

Anyway, the biggest risk would be if it came with the 125mA fuse, which would probably blow when connected to 110V. Using the 300mA to 200V I think the fuse would have plenty of capacity to support the power of the equipment.

Sure, the 300mA on 220V will not blow at power on, but it won't also if there would be a failure, in other words it will not do its job because it will need 2.5 the current to blow (compared to the nominal 125mA one).

Bottom line: better use the right one, always (so now you are OK with the combo 110V/300mA Fuse)