Import MIDI to NORD RACK 2X

[monclarluiz]

But what if Merlimau was right and the NORD is operating at the wrong frequency, how can I solve this?

[Marlowes]

Hej Monclarluiz!

I imagine reading "115V 25W 50/60Hz" if I enlarge this picture.
It should have a switched type of power supply and not being sensitive to the mains frequency.
Neither the 115 or 220 version.
So it should not be an issue. Ricard, correct me (I should know but you are a bit younger)?

Rear view

750-Nord2XR_detail4.jpg (54.97 KiB) Viewed 2045 times

/Amicalement
Michael in Scania

[ricard]

The mains frequency won't make any difference, definitely not with a switchmode power supply and in practice not with a traditional power supply either. The only critical issue would be the voltage, and since that is correct, we can deduce that there is something wrong with the 2X. It might not be a big issue, it could be an internal wire connection that has come loose for instance, but Clavia equipement tends to be very well made so I don't think it would be something trivial like that unfortunately.

[pablomastodon]

But what if Merlimau was right and the NORD is operating at the wrong frequency, how can I solve this?

Perhaps this colloquialism won't translate well into Portuguese, but...you are "reaching for straws" here. Several good people with considerable knowledge have tried to point you in the right direction and you persist in looking the other way, hoping for some quick, easy, simple and cost-free solution. This is understandable, but simply not going to happen in your case. I have been employed as the sole exclusive tech support representative for Nord products in Canada and USA for more than 4-1/2 years and I do know more than a little bit about what I'm saying. I should add here that 1) during that time I have never encountered an NL2X behaving in the manner you describe, and 2) I am well capable at being wrong from time to time. But in this case you have an instrument which is not booting and from all descriptions it is a clear case of one or more mainboard issues of some sort, and these will not be corrected by waving a magic wand over the unit. It needs to be seen by a competent tech with access to service documentation, and your Brasilian distributor will be the right place to go for info on where to find such a shop in Brasil.

Did you puirchase this thing remotely from a seller in England? It may have been damaged in shipping, but seems much more likely based on the info now available to us that you got screwed by the seller. There may be more info which is not available to us, so I am hesitant to say bad words about that seller, but that's how it looks at this moment. If it is possible/practical to return it, that may be your best move.

Otherwise, you'll need to find a shop to deal with it.

Bless,

Pablo

[monclarluiz]

I really don`t think there`s a magic solution (sadly, there`s not), I was jsut trying to find all the possible problems. I`ll contact the tech support and see what they can do for me.

Maybe it was damaged on the shipping. I bought from a brasilian revendor and I really hope that he did not tried to screw me.

Again, thanks all you guys.

[monclarluiz]

I finally found the problem! It was the voltage. I had to open my Nord and change to 115v. I`m feeling so dumb

[pablomastodon]

What is the rating of the fuse in the instrument? Your problems may not be over... And just exactly how is it that if you have 230v power in your home and are feeding it directly to the Nord, that the instrument is working when set to 115v? This gets more confusing day by day...

Pablo

[monclarluiz]

I thought my home was 220v, but it`s really 115v. And just for safety I`m using a stabilizer. We have different voltages at Brazil, it can be very confusing around here.

My Nord has this configurations:

230v 50hz, but i changed to 115v.

[pablomastodon]

You have not responded to the fuse question. Nord instruments shipped for operation on 230v are fitted with 125mA fuses. Nord instruments shipped for operation on 115v operation are fitted with 300mA fuses. There is nothing inherently wrong with operating the instrument with a fuse which has a lower rated amperage than recommendation except that there is a strong possibility that you will blow the fuse and then have a dead instrument until you replace it. If you wish to avoid that problem, it will be a good idea to replace the fuse BEFORE it blows. If/when you wish to sell the instrument to someone who has 230v power (or in case you move to a different house which has 230v power), you will DEFINITELY want to switch back to the original fuse. There IS something inherently wrong with operating the instrument with a fuse which has a higher rated amperage -- there is a strong possibility that something in the instrument may burn up and that will become expensive, much more expensive than a fuse.

Bless,

Pablo