Nord User Forum

catosim wrote:If you check the connections on both pedals, I believe they are not the same.
You probably need a pedal with the same connection as on your Nord single pedal, as Pablo referred to as a TS connection.
The Yamaha pedal has a TRS connection.

Thanks a lot catosim,

I took your advice and purchased a new sustain-pedal (cost 20GBP). I showed the guy in the store your helpful message so that he could source a suitable one - and he did. It actually has a polarity-switch on the pedal itself. So now I have separate pedals for sustain and rotary!

I am now going to program all of the organs to respond to both sustain and rotary triggering - because that's the way I like it!

Cheers.

anotherscott wrote:yeah, try a standard sustain pedal, instead of one of the special ones designed for continuous or "half" damper operation.

Hi anotherscott,

As per above, 'sustain' works great! Actually the guy in the shop did comment that "half" damper would not be suitable.

Paul

Yes the FC3A has a half damper function. You want an FC5 (sustain style also called momentary) or a latch type (on/off style: you press to change speed, and press again to return to previous state). I think the BOSS FS-5L is a latch pedal.
You can make one very cheaply with a foot latch switch (used in many guitar effects) + a piece of cable and a plug.

I confirm you would need a TS connection for this and not TRS. half damping is sending a variable signal, like an EV5 pedal would do (expression), so you'll need a standard sustain or momentary foot switch for this.. PEDALS EVERYWHERE!?

From Left to Right and what keyboard and function they control.

Nord Sustain -- Nord Patch Changer -- Nord Rotary -- Yamaha Sustain -- Nord Organ Swell.

Yes my sustain and volume pedals are cheapo but i play a ton of shows every year and blow through the expensive ones.

I just bought a Nord Electro 3 and I am not a skilled pianist, but plan to use it for creating B3 backing tracks for my guitar recordings. This may seem like a way-too-basic idea, but I have a Electro-Harmonix Lester K pedal that does a beautiful job of simulating Leslie rotor sounds. It has a switch that creates fast-to-slow and slow-to-fast transitions with consecutive clicks. It has stereo in / stereo out and variable rates for the slow and fast speeds (adjustable via knobs on the pedal). Using one of these pedals off of the stereo out jacks on the back of the Nord Electro (or other) piano would be one way to control rotor sounds, even though it does not use the internal tools of the Nord. It could free up a jack on the piano for other purposes. Lester K pedals can be had for about $160 used. Of course, if you want a solution that allows crossover of the fast and slow horn sounds, then this pedal does not do that. I don't know yet if crossover sounds are doable with the Nord Electro - haven't received it yet. Hoping the plain sustain pedal does the rotor trick as stated in this feed. The Lester K is just a thought - Maybe it will help someone . . .

I have an E6D and it is *possible* to use a standard damper pedal to toggle the rotor speed. Unfortunately, many (if not most) damper pedals are a bit glitchy when you press them down. It doesn’t matter if there is a millisecond of glitch if you are using the pedal in ‘hold’ mode… but if you have the Electro in toggle mode, the glitch sometimes (not always) is treated as multiple ultra-fast presses of the pedal, so the rotor speed changes twice (Nothing happens).

I have reported this as a bug (or feature request) to Nord to request that the pedal input for rotor speed be debounced (ignore transitions faster than a human can intentionally perform)… but no response. In any event, I had a bunch of different damper pedals from different manufacturers so I picked the one that does it the least often. It still does it once in a while, so I usually check the rotor speed LED to verify… which sucks if I’m reading a chart.

It is possible that this issue has been addressed in an OS update.

Edit: for a while, I used a Boss FS-6 latching pedal… but the dang thing needed a battery which would die every time I left the pedal connected to the keyboard for too long. A totally useless solution in my studio.