bought a european 6d

[analogika]

Also, PLEASE make sure to stick a little label over the factory voltage label, just to make sure nobody at any point sees that accidentally connects it to a transformer.

A tiny step for you to add a “115V” sticker, but it’ll make sure that the guy who borrows it in an emergency five years from now won’t blow the power supply.

[cgrafx]

Also, PLEASE make sure to stick a little label over the factory voltage label, just to make sure nobody at any point sees that accidentally connects it to a transformer.

A tiny step for you to add a “115V” sticker, but it’ll make sure that the guy who borrows it in an emergency five years from now won’t blow the power supply.

Thats a good point +1

[FZiegler]

The fuse currently installed is a slow blow 125mA 250v you need to get a 250mA 250v fuse as a replacement.

125 mA 250 V > 250 mA 250 V... That means, it doesn't depend on the correct voltage? Didn't know that.

[Arjan P]

The voltage on a fuse is the rating, or what it was tested against. It means if you use it at, for example, 300V, the 125 mA is not guaranteed.

[spghoul]

perfect, thank u this is exactly the information i needed. i’m brand new here but wow what a helpful and kind community. thanks for everyone that contributed, can’t wait to receive my nord and join yall .

[RealDeal]

I live in the USA but was mistakenly shipped a new European 6D. The return shipping from the USA is well over $200 US. A web search turned up this thread. I followed the instructions and now own a new 6D that works in the USA. Thank you all who helped with this!

Just to add a few details of the howto, to remove the top of the unit (don't forget to unplug the power!) you'll need a T-20 torx screw driver. There are 6 torx screws along the upper back edge of the unit (away from the keyboard), and 3 longer torx screws in each end cap. There is a single screw in the bottom center of the unit, the only T-20 screw on the bottom. The other bottom screws should be left in place. You remove the top and sides of the unit as one piece. This top section remains attached to the base of the unit by a ribbon cable and connector. If you keep the top of the unit close to the base you will not have to detach the cable.

As seen in the attached photo, there is a rectangular black switch to the left of the square power supply and it's labeled 115 on one side and 230 on the other. In the photo the switch is positioned for 230. To convert for 115v, simply slide the switch to the side labeled 115. Easy. Put the unit back together now. As described in another post here, replace the 125mA fuse with a 250mA fuse. The fuses are rated for 250v, which is fine. The fuse is next to the power receptacle on the outside of the unit. As someone else mentioned, change the voltage sticker on the back panel of the unit to say 115v, not 230v.

That's it, you're done. Plug it in and away you go!

[analogika]

Also, MAKE SURE to mark on the little sign that the machine is no longer a 230V device.

JUST IN CASE somebody else ever handles it ten years down the line and assumes the label is accurate, and organises a 230V converter that will fry the Board.

[RealDeal]

A quick update to this thread. As stated above, it was suggested to use a 250mA 250v fuse when converting a 230v Nord 6D to 115v (US voltage). I did that and it worked for a while, but I kept blowing fuses on power up. It turns out that one should use a 300mA slow-blow fuse on a US voltage N6. Since switching to that fuse I have not had any fuses blow. I believe the momentary voltage surge at power-on time was blowing the 250mA fast-blow fuses.

SO, in summary, a US voltage N6 requires a 300mA 250v miniature (5x20mm) Slow-Blow fuse. These are manufactured by BUSSMAN, a longtime manufacturer of these types of fuses. They are quite difficult to find locally, but I was able to get a package of 5 online from http://www.divinelighting.com for $2.45 and $12 shipping. The fuse took 2 weeks to receive via the US postal Svc, but I got it OK.

The specific fuse 5-pack product name is:

5 x 5x20mm 300mA Slow-Blow  Ceramic Fuse T300ma 250v (FSX_218_300mA)

As an aside, I sent an inquiry to Clavia support from their website, which forwarded a to company called American Music and Sound Support. This company was 100% USELESS. I simply asked them to tell me the correct value for the Nord 6D 115v fuse. They refused!! It was bad enough that the fuse value was not listed in the owners manual, but for the support company to refuse to divulge the correct value was both astonishing and infuriating. GRRRRRRR!

[FZiegler]

AMS is the distributor for Nord products in the US. They make money with importing the instruments and spreading them to the vendors. It's their job, too, to give service to Nord customers in the US, but it might be understandable they are not keen on helping out if you (or your dealer) import on your own.

[Arjan P]

I did that and it worked for a while, but I kept blowing fuses on power up. It turns out that one should use a 300mA slow-blow fuse on a US voltage N6. Since switching to that fuse I have not had any fuses blow. I believe the momentary voltage surge at power-on time was blowing the 250mA fast-blow fuses.

What I don't get is, why increase the value AND go to slow-blow? I mean, it makes sense to not use a fast-blow fuse exactly because of the surge at power-on, but a 250 mA slow-blow fuse should be more fitting. Half the voltage (230 > 115), double the current (125 > 250).