NS2 / 73 (compact) - eliminating creaking

[michael_C1]

I really love my NordStage 2 Compact.
Even the waterfall keybed, whis is a good compromise to play organ nicely and synth and piano also in a neat way.

But from the very first day, ALL of the black keys made this disgusting creaking when moving a little bit sideways which also occurs while playing.
Playing at home with lower volume is really really disturbing.
On Stage it will not be heard, but you feel it in your fingers also, this plastic on plastic.

In short - it's nasty for such an otherwise fantastic instrument. And it's a disgrace for Fatar, the keybed manufacturer and also for the quality control of Nord.

Finaly I tried to solve the problem and here you will find the solution.
However, it is NOT the often mentioned contact between the springs and the keys.
The problem is deeper seated.
It was hard work and of course the worst keybed, I ever worked on (I did many).
But in the end I can play on a completely silent keyboard - no creaking at all. And this was worth everything.

Please feel free to download the manual and get yourself a better instrument!

http://serenadi.de/NordStage/NS2_elimin ... eaking.pdf

Yours,
Bernard

[anotherscott]

Great information! I wonder why the Nord seems more prone to the creaky key problems than other keyboards that supposedly use the same Fatar TP/8O action, i.e. Hammond SK1, Numa Organ. Nord does spring the action more tightly, so it kind of made sense to think that it was a result of using different springs, so your discovery that it isn't the springs themselves surprised me. Also, I don't think the older Nords (Electro 2, Stage EX) had the same issue, do they?

[pablomastodon]

Hi Bernard,

First off: big thanks for your efforts. This will surely be viewed by a great many people for years to come and be very helpful.

I do have some small criticisms on a few points:

OPENING THE NORD: It is much better practice to NOT remove all three screws from each wooden end, but to leave one screw on each side, the one at the bottom at the rear of the instrument on each side; loosen these 1-2 turns. Once the other screws are removed as per your tutorial, the lid will lift like the hood of a car. This protects the panelboard ribbon cables from damage. The lid lifts far enough to get one's hand in there to disconnect the panelboard ribbon cables, THEN remove the two remaining screws from the wooden end caps, and remove the lid entirely. It will always be best to avoid risking damage to ribbon cables, and leaving those two rear screws on to act as hinge pins for the lid will protect them.

I also like to point out here that it is best to put the lid somewhere across the room in a safe place where no wagging dog tail or small child's inquisitive fingers might cause it damage. Sounds funny, but I have learned this lesson the hard (thankfully, not on a Nord).

Not a big deal to note cable polarity -- the plugs are keyed and cannot be inserted into the sockets backwards.

FIRST TRY:

In the absence of the correct tool, the needle nose pliers can be used to remove springs. But this can get tedious when lots of springs need to be removed, plus this action distorts the springs in non-axial ways and could conceivably cause problems as a result. A small gage philips or star drive tool of just the right diameter can be inserted through the hole at the top of the spring from above the key. It won't fit through the much smaller hole at the bottom of the spring. By pressing the tool straight down until the lower flange of the spring clears the lower bezel (good choice of words for that, I think), then swung to the side to clear the bezel and released. At least this way, all stresses on the springs are axial to the spring. As an added bonus, it's really quick and easy to do all 73 of them that way when you have need. Pliers are a pain.

THE SOLUTION

This is where I really have a problem with your procedure. Removing the screws which affix the keybed assembly to the lower chassis while the keybed cables are still connected to the mainboard is a REALLY BAD IDEA. Asking for trouble. Sure, it may be possible to juggle the whole mess, but why risk it? One little slip and you're screwed. If the part isn't in stock at your national distributor's warehouse, you could be looking at an expensive bright red paperweight for some weeks.

Once the lid is off, disconnect the ribbons from the keybed assembly, then flip the whole mess over onto the soft woolen blanket or whatever and remove all the screws. Better safe than sorry.

Despite the above, major kudos for all the hard work and the education, too. I always thought that the two spring flanges were the only places wanting lube, but that third point, the fulcrum, is very good to know.

Bless,

Pablo

[Frantz]

Bernard Ich danke Ihnen für all diese Informationen sehr genau

[Bernard]

Bernard Ich danke Ihnen für all diese Informationen sehr genau

Hehe,
is that google translation?
Yes, sorry for my poor english. I never learned it very well, so I have to handle with translators and dictionaries a lot (but I did not use google translate ).
And no one told me some special technical words, so for instance I used "bezel" as the best translation for the german word "Einfassung" instead of flange (whooo? A flanger is really a different tool for me. )
Maybe that there are many odd expressions in my words, but I hope you'll understand it anyway.

cheers,
Bernard

[Bernard]

Not a big deal to note cable polarity -- the plugs are keyed and cannot be inserted into the sockets backwards.

....

Removing the screws which affix the keybed assembly to the lower chassis while the keybed cables are still connected to the mainboard is a REALLY BAD IDEA.

Pablo, it wasn't a really bad idea, it was just the way I did it.
I've never opened a Nord before, I did not know, what's beneath the keybed. Also I didn't know how to handle the red multipin connectors. These tiny connectors I often saw fix soldered to the board, so I first wanted to know what all looks like.

Regarding the "note cable polarity": I've experienced people who were able to plug in a PC power connector (the 4 pole ones) twisted.
With a result that was stinking strange.
As we in Germany say: Ich hab' schon Pferde kotzen sehen!

I thought I should mention it in the manual, as you're mentioning some other safety hints too.
Thank you for your additional tips.

Bernard

[pablomastodon]

Your English looks just fine to me. And it is a credit to your careful handling that you were able to juggle those part while connected by cables, but safe will be better than sorry. When instructing others on the best way, disconnecting those cables sooner rather than later will always be a good idea.

Pablo