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NL 2 - Power cord replacement

Posted: 12 Nov 2025, 14:41
by lorniverse
Hello everyone,

I’ve had a Lead 2 for 10+ years that always had an issue with freezing/needing multiple power cycles to stay on. I finally opened it up recently and found the power cord was damaged on the inside of the unit (there’s a small dent so I suspect a previous owner dropped it and the cord got damaged).

Does anyone have experience replacing these? Syntaur.com sells replacement AC cords but it looks like the connector is different, so I’m not very confident in purchasing one. From my research it looks like the cord has a molex connector, so I’m not sure if I’d need to buy a standard AC cord and manually attach a molex to it.

Thanks for any advice/experience!

Re: NL 2 - Power cord replacement

Posted: 15 Nov 2025, 01:15
by pterm
What's the center-center spacing of the pins on the connector?
Or if easier, the outside dimensions of the rectangular connector on the circuit board.

I didn't make a positive identification of the connector from the image.

Re: NL 2 - Power cord replacement

Posted: 15 Nov 2025, 13:00
by Ledbetter
That’s called a polarized C7 connector.


Re: NL 2 - Power cord replacement

Posted: 15 Nov 2025, 17:56
by maxpiano
Ledbetter wrote: 15 Nov 2025, 13:00 That’s called a polarized C7 connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Polarized-Connec ... B0DG6H326C (this one? not sure...)

Re: NL 2 - Power cord replacement

Posted: 16 Nov 2025, 01:12
by pterm
Ledbetter wrote: 15 Nov 2025, 13:00 That’s called a polarized C7 connector.
I don't think so: The central rib in the middle of the board-mounted receptacle would interfere with a polarized C7.

I estimated the pin pitch using the OP's finger for scale...

It looks to me more like one of these Molex, but without the dimensions, I can't confirm:
Molex 19091026

The mating connector (board mounted) appears to match this (notice the alignment pin on the outside of the connector body):
Molex 1531026

If it's one of these, replacing the cord requires crimping new terminals onto the cord's wires. To do this properly requires the correct crimping tool which cost $500-700... Molex Crimper for this Connector 18AWG

I don't see exposed conductors in the picture of the damaged wire: Only the cable sheath appears damaged. I question whether this is the cause of the OP's power start / power stability issues.

Given the age of this (Lead 2), my first thought is to check the electrolytic capacitors. --They possess very short working lifetimes (especially if they get hot).