Nord Stage 3 will not boot up [solved – full report]
Posted: 28 Nov 2024, 05:13
Hi Nord Forum users,
I purchased a Nord Stage 3 HP76 in early 2022 which has been a fantastic addition to my home studio. Unfortunately in early 2024 I started experiencing an issue which I have found posted on this forum a few times. When powering on the keyboard all the LEDs will briefly flicker and the power supply whirs into life, but the screen stays bank and the keyboard will not boot up at all.
Initially it would sometimes power on fine, and sometimes I got the dreaded blank screen. Eventually I got the blank screen more and more frequently. I’ve seen stressed musicians posting on this forum with the same issue and I thought it would be worth sharing my experience and the fix that worked for me.
Important note: all credit goes this forum's user cgrafx and the forum post linked here, my issue was identical, and I have solved the problem in the same way by replacing the NS3 motherboard.
I have made this post as a reinforcement to cgrafx’s post, to share my experience and provide guidance for others to help fix the issue. Users might not find his post, so I am also posting to boost visibility of this issue.
How to check if your problem is the same
When you first click the power button into the on position, all the LEDs will flash very briefly (which is evidence that power is getting to the display board), but nothing else happens - the main screen stays blank and the keyboard will not boot.
To the best of your ability, you should verify that the power supply is working properly. There are a few ways you could do this, but at a minimum you can hear it. Power the keyboard on in a quiet room, and hold your ear to the back (near the power switch). You’ll hear the hum when it’s on. I think the LEDs flickering is also a positive sign. If anyone has a better simple way for the average user to easily check the power supply please post below.
cgrafx’s post states that this problem is caused by a thermal issue within the main motherboard, meaning the problem is linked to cold temperatures, and I do live in a fairly cold climate. This matches my experience. I found that I could boot up the keyboard successfully by moving a high powered oil heater into my studio room near the keyboard and cranking it to a sweltering temperature. I’d leave the power supply running for 5-10 minutes with the keyboard dead, and then do a quick “off/on” with the main switch, which would cause the keyboard to boot up successfully.
I run a home studio which means I can have the keyboard switched on permanently, but every now and then the power has to come off (outages, electrical work in the house etc), and it got very annoying. Also I was worried that one day this trick would stop working. So I bit the bullet and ordered a new motherboard from Syntaur in the hope it would fix my beloved NS3, and so I could better inform the users here who would be nervous about the cost outlay of doing the same – https://syntaur.com/Part-11870-Main-board-Nord-Stage-3.
Replacing the Motherboard
A couple of disclaimers: I am an electrical engineer. I don’t work with electronics regularly but I have more training than the average user in working with complex low voltage equipment. I would put the complexity of this task as about equivalent to building a desktop PC from scratch – maybe slightly trickier. If you are comfortable with managing electrostatic discharge, carefully placing and screwing delicate components and working with tight ribbon cables, you should be able to manage this motherboard replacement. But remember that even low voltage electronics can be dangerous with stored energy risks (especially in the power supply), so if you are not confident after reading this post then please get a local electronics repair shop to do the replacement for you.
Also – note that my keyboard is a NS3 HP76. If you have a 73 or 88 key version, your approach may be slightly different.
Step 0. Back up your entire existing NS3 using the Nord Sound Manager.
This step is VERY IMPORTANT. The new motherboard comes as a blank slate, no software, no patches, nothing. You know all those cool presets (banks A through to L) which come with the NS3? You’ll lose them if you don’t back it all up now. Not to mention all your other patches and configuration.
The only help I can give you for this step is using the heater trick stated above. Cook the room, power it on, and back it up.
Tools Required
A Torx screwdriver set (can be purchased from the local hardware store). A standard set of heads will give you the size required for the outer casing screws and the screws that attaches the motherboard to the frame, but you will also need a precision T6 screwdriver for the annoying tiny screws just below the MIDI connectors. Do NOT try and just use a flathead, I did initially try using a precision flathead to get these screws off and was unsuccessful. If you break the thread on these screws you’ll have bigger problems.
As stated in cgrafx’s post I’d recommend a socket set (1/2") or nut driver – whatever your part of the world calls it - to remove and install the nuts for all the 1/4" jacks. I didn’t use mine, instead I easily got these nuts off and on (tightened) with pair of good long nosed pliers… just note if you do the same you will probably scratch up the nuts like I did. So if you care about aesthetics use the proper tools.
You’ll want a sterile dry environment with minimal dust, good grounding (i.e. nothing silly like ugg boots or carpet where electrostatic discharge is a risk). I also suggest a good night sleep and taking the day off work to get this done, or having a clear weekend. You’ll want to be on the ball.
Step 1. Undo the 6x Torx screws on each wooden side panel, which allows you to remove those wooden panels (Photo 1). Don’t lose the spring washers… they are important, and in my case the rubber spacers underneath the washers occasionally also came out, so be ready to put them back.
Step 2. Remove the top section of back panel screws which secure the “main red panel” to the frame.
Step 3. There is a metal bracket which is screwed to the top of the main red panel frame (underneath), and attached the base (Photo 2) (Photo 3). You will need to unscrew this bracket from the base of the keyboard – make sure you locate and remove the correct screw underneath.
Step 4. The main red panel should now lift off, but do this very carefully as there is a short ribbon cable with 2x connections from this red panel, with a connection to the main motherboard (Photo 3). You will need to unclip the 2x ribbon cable connections from the red panel in order to remove it.
Step 5. Remove the remainder of the ribbon cables from the left hand side of the motherboard (looking from the back), perhaps take photos and carefully track where and how they were connected (Photo 4). Be respectful of the power supply (stored energy risks). Also disconnect the blue jumper connection on the other side of the motherboard with the 2x black and 2x white wires.
The other end of the red & white headed ribbon cables are connected to a vertically mounted PCB on a metal bracket which is secured to the case. I left the ribbon cables connected at this end, and did not touch or dismount this board or the steel bracket (Photo 5). It looks like it might be in the way, but at least in the case of the HP76, there was room to get the motherboard out from underneath it without needing to touch it.
Step 6. The ¼ inch and MIDI connectors on the motherboard are secured to the case from the outside, via the silver nuts and washers. As stated above, take these off with a socket set or carefully with a set of long nose pliers (Photo 6). Note the “Monitor In” silver washer also needs to come off – long nose pliers works for this. There are also 4x T6 torx screws underneath the MIDI connections which need to come out (Photo 7).
Step 7. Finally there are 3x silver torx screws (the same head as the case screws in my case) which secure the motherboard to the frame. These were very tight on mine, give it a good but careful twist with the screwdriver and remove these screws. The motherboard should now move freely and can be removed (Photo 8).
Step 8. Carefully remove the motherboard. This was easy for me to do once I had the keys on the lower third of the keyboard pushed down so the hammers lifted up to make room. I’d recommend getting sometime to help you by holding something down over the keybed so you can carefully maneuver the motherboard out.
Step 9. There is a 2x pin jumper on the motherboard near main ribbon cable connection (the one you initially removed). It says “KB TYPE” and will have either 76 or 73. Move this jumper from the old motherboard to the new motherboard (Photo 8).
Step 10. You should be able to reverse all steps 9 back to 1 to attach the motherboard, restore the ribbon cable connections, reattach the main red panel and side panels.
Step 11. Once you are confident all the connections have been made (I suggest getting help with reattaching the final 2x main red panel ribbon cable connections… it’s difficult for one person)… you’ll want to power up the keyboard and check it is working.
As stated before, this motherboard is a blank slate with no software. When I booted it up for the first time the main screen worked (success!) and it flashed up “Error Boot (OS)” and then said “READY FOR UPDATE” (Photo 9). You’re almost there.
Step 12. Go to the Nord website and download the “Nord Stage 3 OS Update” package. At the time of writing this the current version is 2.64. Connect up the USB cable and run the OS loader, which will install the OS into the new motherboard.
Step 13: Once the OS install is complete, the keyboard will boot up and you’ll be able to play/test it, just note as stated before it’ll be a very blank OS with no patches. Now you will want to fire up the Nord Sound Manager and restore the backup you made in step 0.
Closing Remarks
To experience this sort of major defect on such a high quality expensive instrument, only a couple of years after purchase, is in my opinion pretty unacceptable. Being in Australia, I probably had a case to make a claim under the Australian Consumer Law for a replacement keyboard or the cost of repair, but I didn’t have the patience to work through it and I have the disposable income to just fix it myself. If your country has similar consumer protection laws, I hope the evidence in this post will help you to make a case if you are outside the warranty period.
If you work for Nord and are reading this, I ask that you provide some more information about this bootup thermal issue to this community, to inform us as users on whether they may be susceptible to the problem. Your products support the livelihood of many of your customers, and dealing with quality issues in “legacy” products is important for your brand. My old motherboard had a v2.12 sticker on it, the new one has a v2.15 sticker. Will this new version have the same faulty component that deteriorates over time? We shall see.
I’ll report back in if the problem re-emerges, to better inform this community on the issue with this motherboard. Maybe together we can investigate where else it may emerge (on other Nord products) and put more pressure on Nord to investigate, inform us and fix the problem.
I hope you find this post useful, and if any clarifications are required please post below and I will be happy to provide them.
I purchased a Nord Stage 3 HP76 in early 2022 which has been a fantastic addition to my home studio. Unfortunately in early 2024 I started experiencing an issue which I have found posted on this forum a few times. When powering on the keyboard all the LEDs will briefly flicker and the power supply whirs into life, but the screen stays bank and the keyboard will not boot up at all.
Initially it would sometimes power on fine, and sometimes I got the dreaded blank screen. Eventually I got the blank screen more and more frequently. I’ve seen stressed musicians posting on this forum with the same issue and I thought it would be worth sharing my experience and the fix that worked for me.
Important note: all credit goes this forum's user cgrafx and the forum post linked here, my issue was identical, and I have solved the problem in the same way by replacing the NS3 motherboard.
I have made this post as a reinforcement to cgrafx’s post, to share my experience and provide guidance for others to help fix the issue. Users might not find his post, so I am also posting to boost visibility of this issue.
How to check if your problem is the same
When you first click the power button into the on position, all the LEDs will flash very briefly (which is evidence that power is getting to the display board), but nothing else happens - the main screen stays blank and the keyboard will not boot.
To the best of your ability, you should verify that the power supply is working properly. There are a few ways you could do this, but at a minimum you can hear it. Power the keyboard on in a quiet room, and hold your ear to the back (near the power switch). You’ll hear the hum when it’s on. I think the LEDs flickering is also a positive sign. If anyone has a better simple way for the average user to easily check the power supply please post below.
cgrafx’s post states that this problem is caused by a thermal issue within the main motherboard, meaning the problem is linked to cold temperatures, and I do live in a fairly cold climate. This matches my experience. I found that I could boot up the keyboard successfully by moving a high powered oil heater into my studio room near the keyboard and cranking it to a sweltering temperature. I’d leave the power supply running for 5-10 minutes with the keyboard dead, and then do a quick “off/on” with the main switch, which would cause the keyboard to boot up successfully.
I run a home studio which means I can have the keyboard switched on permanently, but every now and then the power has to come off (outages, electrical work in the house etc), and it got very annoying. Also I was worried that one day this trick would stop working. So I bit the bullet and ordered a new motherboard from Syntaur in the hope it would fix my beloved NS3, and so I could better inform the users here who would be nervous about the cost outlay of doing the same – https://syntaur.com/Part-11870-Main-board-Nord-Stage-3.
Replacing the Motherboard
A couple of disclaimers: I am an electrical engineer. I don’t work with electronics regularly but I have more training than the average user in working with complex low voltage equipment. I would put the complexity of this task as about equivalent to building a desktop PC from scratch – maybe slightly trickier. If you are comfortable with managing electrostatic discharge, carefully placing and screwing delicate components and working with tight ribbon cables, you should be able to manage this motherboard replacement. But remember that even low voltage electronics can be dangerous with stored energy risks (especially in the power supply), so if you are not confident after reading this post then please get a local electronics repair shop to do the replacement for you.
Also – note that my keyboard is a NS3 HP76. If you have a 73 or 88 key version, your approach may be slightly different.
Step 0. Back up your entire existing NS3 using the Nord Sound Manager.
This step is VERY IMPORTANT. The new motherboard comes as a blank slate, no software, no patches, nothing. You know all those cool presets (banks A through to L) which come with the NS3? You’ll lose them if you don’t back it all up now. Not to mention all your other patches and configuration.
The only help I can give you for this step is using the heater trick stated above. Cook the room, power it on, and back it up.
Tools Required
A Torx screwdriver set (can be purchased from the local hardware store). A standard set of heads will give you the size required for the outer casing screws and the screws that attaches the motherboard to the frame, but you will also need a precision T6 screwdriver for the annoying tiny screws just below the MIDI connectors. Do NOT try and just use a flathead, I did initially try using a precision flathead to get these screws off and was unsuccessful. If you break the thread on these screws you’ll have bigger problems.
As stated in cgrafx’s post I’d recommend a socket set (1/2") or nut driver – whatever your part of the world calls it - to remove and install the nuts for all the 1/4" jacks. I didn’t use mine, instead I easily got these nuts off and on (tightened) with pair of good long nosed pliers… just note if you do the same you will probably scratch up the nuts like I did. So if you care about aesthetics use the proper tools.
You’ll want a sterile dry environment with minimal dust, good grounding (i.e. nothing silly like ugg boots or carpet where electrostatic discharge is a risk). I also suggest a good night sleep and taking the day off work to get this done, or having a clear weekend. You’ll want to be on the ball.
Step 1. Undo the 6x Torx screws on each wooden side panel, which allows you to remove those wooden panels (Photo 1). Don’t lose the spring washers… they are important, and in my case the rubber spacers underneath the washers occasionally also came out, so be ready to put them back.
Step 2. Remove the top section of back panel screws which secure the “main red panel” to the frame.
Step 3. There is a metal bracket which is screwed to the top of the main red panel frame (underneath), and attached the base (Photo 2) (Photo 3). You will need to unscrew this bracket from the base of the keyboard – make sure you locate and remove the correct screw underneath.
Step 4. The main red panel should now lift off, but do this very carefully as there is a short ribbon cable with 2x connections from this red panel, with a connection to the main motherboard (Photo 3). You will need to unclip the 2x ribbon cable connections from the red panel in order to remove it.
Step 5. Remove the remainder of the ribbon cables from the left hand side of the motherboard (looking from the back), perhaps take photos and carefully track where and how they were connected (Photo 4). Be respectful of the power supply (stored energy risks). Also disconnect the blue jumper connection on the other side of the motherboard with the 2x black and 2x white wires.
The other end of the red & white headed ribbon cables are connected to a vertically mounted PCB on a metal bracket which is secured to the case. I left the ribbon cables connected at this end, and did not touch or dismount this board or the steel bracket (Photo 5). It looks like it might be in the way, but at least in the case of the HP76, there was room to get the motherboard out from underneath it without needing to touch it.
Step 6. The ¼ inch and MIDI connectors on the motherboard are secured to the case from the outside, via the silver nuts and washers. As stated above, take these off with a socket set or carefully with a set of long nose pliers (Photo 6). Note the “Monitor In” silver washer also needs to come off – long nose pliers works for this. There are also 4x T6 torx screws underneath the MIDI connections which need to come out (Photo 7).
Step 7. Finally there are 3x silver torx screws (the same head as the case screws in my case) which secure the motherboard to the frame. These were very tight on mine, give it a good but careful twist with the screwdriver and remove these screws. The motherboard should now move freely and can be removed (Photo 8).
Step 8. Carefully remove the motherboard. This was easy for me to do once I had the keys on the lower third of the keyboard pushed down so the hammers lifted up to make room. I’d recommend getting sometime to help you by holding something down over the keybed so you can carefully maneuver the motherboard out.
Step 9. There is a 2x pin jumper on the motherboard near main ribbon cable connection (the one you initially removed). It says “KB TYPE” and will have either 76 or 73. Move this jumper from the old motherboard to the new motherboard (Photo 8).
Step 10. You should be able to reverse all steps 9 back to 1 to attach the motherboard, restore the ribbon cable connections, reattach the main red panel and side panels.
Step 11. Once you are confident all the connections have been made (I suggest getting help with reattaching the final 2x main red panel ribbon cable connections… it’s difficult for one person)… you’ll want to power up the keyboard and check it is working.
As stated before, this motherboard is a blank slate with no software. When I booted it up for the first time the main screen worked (success!) and it flashed up “Error Boot (OS)” and then said “READY FOR UPDATE” (Photo 9). You’re almost there.
Step 12. Go to the Nord website and download the “Nord Stage 3 OS Update” package. At the time of writing this the current version is 2.64. Connect up the USB cable and run the OS loader, which will install the OS into the new motherboard.
Step 13: Once the OS install is complete, the keyboard will boot up and you’ll be able to play/test it, just note as stated before it’ll be a very blank OS with no patches. Now you will want to fire up the Nord Sound Manager and restore the backup you made in step 0.
Closing Remarks
To experience this sort of major defect on such a high quality expensive instrument, only a couple of years after purchase, is in my opinion pretty unacceptable. Being in Australia, I probably had a case to make a claim under the Australian Consumer Law for a replacement keyboard or the cost of repair, but I didn’t have the patience to work through it and I have the disposable income to just fix it myself. If your country has similar consumer protection laws, I hope the evidence in this post will help you to make a case if you are outside the warranty period.
If you work for Nord and are reading this, I ask that you provide some more information about this bootup thermal issue to this community, to inform us as users on whether they may be susceptible to the problem. Your products support the livelihood of many of your customers, and dealing with quality issues in “legacy” products is important for your brand. My old motherboard had a v2.12 sticker on it, the new one has a v2.15 sticker. Will this new version have the same faulty component that deteriorates over time? We shall see.
I’ll report back in if the problem re-emerges, to better inform this community on the issue with this motherboard. Maybe together we can investigate where else it may emerge (on other Nord products) and put more pressure on Nord to investigate, inform us and fix the problem.
I hope you find this post useful, and if any clarifications are required please post below and I will be happy to provide them.
