Nord User Forum

hey i got a nord lead 2, synth repair in my country is notoriously expensive and see spare parts are cheap so if not complicated would like to repair myself.
first issue is one of my white keys got pulled up high and is now stuck like an inch higher than the rest of the keys. Pressing down the key now doesnt play anything

second issue is the frequency knob if i turn it all way to the right theres like this click and than it sends random midi cc information without touching anything

What parts do i need and how fix please?

The Fatar action keyboard is quite easy to fix, if the PCB or plastic mount ON the PCB hasn't been damaged. Youtube has videos on key replacement and keyboard disassembly, just search there a bit. All it takes is a screwdriver or two, a pair of needlenose pliers for the spring, and being moderately careful. Can't say what's broken from your description, but it's probable one of the plastic retaining pivots on the hinge broke. You might be able to fix it with a replacement key, those can be got from a variety of vendors and are fairly cheap. Take it apart, post photos here, and various forum folk can help you figure out what part(s) you'll need.

Frequency knob is likely the potentiometer behind it - is the click tactile (as in, like a "notch" or felt resistance), audible (as in, not in the synth output but just physically noisy to be heard in the air), or both? That's an easy job to replace if you know how to solder - the part isn't too expensive and is still available last I checked. If you don't know how to solder-rework a through hole component you might best find a good competent repair person who does and is willing to work on your synth. They don't have to be a synth specialist to replace a potentiometer, just a decently skilled individual at modern PCB rework. It's a straightforward job.

23skidoo wrote:The Fatar action keyboard is quite easy to fix, if the PCB or plastic mount ON the PCB hasn't been damaged. Youtube has videos on key replacement and keyboard disassembly, just search there a bit. All it takes is a screwdriver or two, a pair of needlenose pliers for the spring, and being moderately careful. Can't say what's broken from your description, but it's probable one of the plastic retaining pivots on the hinge broke. You might be able to fix it with a replacement key, those can be got from a variety of vendors and are fairly cheap. Take it apart, post photos here, and various forum folk can help you figure out what part(s) you'll need.

Frequency knob is likely the potentiometer behind it - is the click tactile (as in, like a "notch" or felt resistance), audible (as in, not in the synth output but just physically noisy to be heard in the air), or both? That's an easy job to replace if you know how to solder - the part isn't too expensive and is still available last I checked. If you don't know how to solder-rework a through hole component you might best find a good competent repair person who does and is willing to work on your synth. They don't have to be a synth specialist to replace a potentiometer, just a decently skilled individual at modern PCB rework. It's a straightforward job.

frequency knob yes its a tactile click can both feel and hear it, k if thats issue ill get a potentiometer and find someone to solder it

the key issue, never mind what i said about pressing down not working, its been a while since i used this keyboard. It works when i press down. And closer inspection now i found inside a broken black piece of plastic that looks like it was holding down the key. I think this plastic might go across the entire keybed, im guessing thats part of the 49-note keybed chassis?
heres some photos,
thanks

Ok, yes, the pot is *likely* broken, or there's a tiny possibility that the extreme travel of the pot indicates that the solder joints or connections between the pot and the pcb traces are loose (normally contacting but under that force maybe it rotates the pot body physically enough to break the contact). You'll need to remove the pot and check the PCB to be sure. Make sure you get the proper replacement part, of course, not just any pot will work properly, but you no doubt know that.

The black thing you're holding is actually two parts - the key bushing and the broken piece off the keyboard chassis. Syntaur lists the chassis for $25USD (https://syntaur.com/keyboard.php?keyboard=Nord_Lead%202) but they're currently out of stock on them. You might find that part elsewhere or contact them to see when they intend to restock it. They also carry the potentiometer. I find their prices rather excessive, but sometimes they're the only place to stock something too, and they're nice folks to deal with, ship promptly (in my experience, at least), etc. This isn't an endorsement per se, but I wouldn't shy away from ordering through them if you don't have another vendor you want to support more. When you replace the chassis, you'll need to remove the bushings from the old one, including that one on the broken part, and replace them. I am not sure if new chassis come with bushings and since they're a separate PN I expect not.

If you're moderately handy, both of those repairs should be doable at home in an hour or two on a weekend. Take the time to clean out the inside of that synth while you're at it, it looks pretty filthy. Hopefully you got it cheap!

23skidoo wrote:Ok, yes, the pot is *likely* broken, or there's a tiny possibility that the extreme travel of the pot indicates that the solder joints or connections between the pot and the pcb traces are loose (normally contacting but under that force maybe it rotates the pot body physically enough to break the contact). You'll need to remove the pot and check the PCB to be sure. Make sure you get the proper replacement part, of course, not just any pot will work properly, but you no doubt know that.

The black thing you're holding is actually two parts - the key bushing and the broken piece off the keyboard chassis. Syntaur lists the chassis for $25USD (https://syntaur.com/keyboard.php?keyboard=Nord_Lead%202) but they're currently out of stock on them. You might find that part elsewhere or contact them to see when they intend to restock it. They also carry the potentiometer. I find their prices rather excessive, but sometimes they're the only place to stock something too, and they're nice folks to deal with, ship promptly (in my experience, at least), etc. This isn't an endorsement per se, but I wouldn't shy away from ordering through them if you don't have another vendor you want to support more. When you replace the chassis, you'll need to remove the bushings from the old one, including that one on the broken part, and replace them. I am not sure if new chassis come with bushings and since they're a separate PN I expect not.

If you're moderately handy, both of those repairs should be doable at home in an hour or two on a weekend. Take the time to clean out the inside of that synth while you're at it, it looks pretty filthy. Hopefully you got it cheap!

cool will get the potentiometer and chassis when back in stock since seems thats only site that sells it, n yes will def give it a good cleaning while at it thanks so much!

Another thought: I have no idea what type of plastic that is (maybe an ABS or HDPE variant, maybe an acrylic?) but you *might* be able to glue the piece back on using a plastic cement that actually melts and refuses the plastic together chemically. It won't be as durable as a new chassis, but it might work long enough for you to get by while waiting for new stock. I also have very little faith in such repairs personally, but sometimes if you find the right glue, it can work modestly well. Might be worth a shot, if you've got nothing to lose in the meantime. Just be careful not to get that glue mess on *anything* else in there (or the bushing part, either). And don't use epoxy or gorilla glue or krazy glue or any other typical adhesive-based glue as that will definitely not work (they either snap right back off due to lack of grip on the plastic polymers or they are flexible and bendy and result in a mushy soft bond that leaves you worse than no fix).

23skidoo wrote:Another thought: I have no idea what type of plastic that is (maybe an ABS or HDPE variant, maybe an acrylic?) but you *might* be able to glue the piece back on using a plastic cement that actually melts and refuses the plastic together chemically. It won't be as durable as a new chassis, but it might work long enough for you to get by while waiting for new stock. I also have very little faith in such repairs personally, but sometimes if you find the right glue, it can work modestly well. Might be worth a shot, if you've got nothing to lose in the meantime. Just be careful not to get that glue mess on *anything* else in there (or the bushing part, either). And don't use epoxy or gorilla glue or krazy glue or any other typical adhesive-based glue as that will definitely not work (they either snap right back off due to lack of grip on the plastic polymers or they are flexible and bendy and result in a mushy soft bond that leaves you worse than no fix).

thanks yeh thats def worth a try, never heard of plastic cement till now, off to a toy store

last issue having btw with this synth is a very wobbly mod wheel thats no longer in middle of frame and scratches against it. i checked now inside, the 2 screws holding it aren't loose, heres videos of the issue from a view out and inside:

It looks like the axel of the potentiometer is worn out.
I can think of two options: replace the potentiometer (best), or (a hack) remove the wheel and insert a spacer in between (e.g. a plastic washer, so it does not generate friction or debris) to reduce the lateral movement (not sure it will work, but it might).

Mr_-G- wrote:It looks like the axel of the potentiometer is worn out.
I can think of two options: replace the potentiometer (best), or (a hack) remove the wheel and insert a spacer in between (e.g. a plastic washer, so it does not generate friction or debris) to reduce the lateral movement (not sure it will work, but it might).

ill just replace the potentiometer with this https://syntaur.com/Part-10663-Potentio ... -mod-wheel, only $20 and looks simple enough to do on own with no soldering needed, thanks!