Nord User Forum

Mr_-G- wrote:I guess that it is some debris/dust in the key contacts. Not sure how easy it is to open and clean those in the Grand.

There was a very kind guy member in our forum here that he posted a full walkthrough photos of how he changed contacts on a nord grand

It didnt seem very hard

In my system, Page 6 of 9 in this thread (more or less in the middle posts)

Sorry for the distraction, but I am testing whether I have the ability to post new messages. I don't seem to be able to.

EDIT: Apparently I can reply to previous posts.

I ask for help in the forum, I'm a bit desperate. I followed the tutorial step by step to open my nord grand, now I have an even bigger problem, apparently everything is in place but when I turn on the piano I find all the lights on, the screen does not light up, nothing works. I have to say that these tests are before tightening the last screws, I imagine that this is not a problem. Hope someone can help me.

Hi I would check that all the cables you disconnected are correctly and fully seated and in the right position.

I checked it over and over again and I see that everything is in place I send some photos to see if anyone sees something strange.

solved!!
I leave testimony in case it can be useful to someone.
one of the connectors moved when manipulating the top cover, it was not one of the connectors that had to be disconnected so it can go unnoticed.
when closing the lid it can receive a small blow which means that it is not well attached.

Congratulations and thanks for the info !

I'm sorry to see this thread continuing to grow! I posted earlier about velocity issues, which I addressed using the helpful procedures outlined on p. 6 of this thread. The offending note was the D right above middle C; so I cleaned that contact (I thought) and swapped it with the highest one. When I put it together, the D above middle C was fixed; but the corresponding D (the highest, where I put the piece of the pad that had been in the middle) was still having the velocity issue. I didn't bother to address it since I don't play up there very often.

But now the D above middle C is showing the velocity problem again! Why that key again?

Also, in what I assume is an unrelated problem, middle C key has started to stick. Once again the keyboard is pretty much unplayable, at least for gigs.

So I ordered the replacement pad from synth-parts, as someone else had earlier in the thread; I just received it, and plan to install it in the next few days. I'll let you know how that goes...But if anyone has a thought about the sticking middle C, I'd appreciate any insight!

James

This has been quite an odyssey; I first had a velocity problem last fall (2022) with the D above middle C, and went in and did the "clean and swap" as described earlier in this thread (such a helpful post by intuit!). I cleaned and swapped the rubber contact that included the D with the one at the very top; the D4 worked fine (for a while), but the one I'd switched still had the velocity problem - it happened to be the highest D. But I considered it a success since I rarely play up there.

Then I started having the problems I mentioned in my previous post: The middle C was getting stuck, and the D above it had started to have the same velocity problem as before. I thought it might be good to try the solution a couple others have - getting a whole new PCB to replace the current one.

So I open it up and find the craziest thing with the middle C - it was getting stuck in the felt pad! Somehow the metal part of the action had opened a gap in the felt - I'll try to post a pic. As a stop-gap (literally), I cut a piece off the end of the strip (it goes the whole length of the keyboard) and glued it in, and that seemed to do it.

Then I replaced the PCB with the new one, and it's working beautifully. The tone and touch seem to be much more consistent with this new board - the original actually had different touch between the black and white keys (I thought I was making that up until I tried it with the new board and heard and felt the difference).

Short story long, if you're having any issues at all with velocity or unevenness in tone, I highly recommend getting the new board. Kawai apparently says it's a significant improvement over the first one, and I can attest to that. You can find it here:https://www.synth-parts.com/en/products ... -044-2?c=0

I'm far from a mechanical genius, so I can attest it's very doable, especially with the pics from intuit's post. I'd be happy to help anyone through it - I did take some pics.

Of course, there's the issue of why a $4k keyboard should have any of these problems; obviously it shouldn't. But imo there's nothing else like it - action, sound, looks - so I'll stick with it and hope this solves things.