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There is a fuse to prevent the instrument from power damage. But if you get a short power burst, it's not necessarily the power unit that will be fried. Some try to protect their gear by special power supplies. I'm not sure if it always helps.tuejan wrote:It certainly wasn't a handling or misuse issue. So can only be a faulty part, insufficiently robust part, a design oversight, or a manufacturing defect ...
Hi, was just searching the forum for anybody experiencing this issue, I believe I have the same issue with my Stage 3 76. I'm considering ordering a main board from Syntaur and swapping it myself, to save the $$ on tech repair. Is yours still working well after having the main board replaced? Any reason why you had a local shop repair rather than doing it yourself? I'm just trying to understand what the experience is for swapping the board, was there anything required other than the actual physical replacement, or was your board just back to its normal settings? Thanks!tuejan wrote:Ok folks, sorry about the long delay but I just got a new job so the last 10 weeks sort of dissapeared. I had the unit repaired at NightLife Electronics in Vancouver. Just want to thank Peter (pterm) again for all his excellent help and patience. The upshot was that the power board was fine, the motherboard got power correctly. The motherboard did not seem to have any obvious problems but just would not boot. So a new motherboard was installed and it worked. I have the board that was removed and I'd love to send it to Nord to see what was wrong with it as this may inform future design decision, I'd be more than happy to pay for the shipping to Europe for this. Overall cost then was $1300 Canadian. Not the best to have an item classed as a stage piano just have a failed motherboard for no apparent reason in it's first couple of years of life. It certainly wasn't a handling or misuse issue. So can only be a faulty part, insufficiently robust part, a design oversight, or a manufacturing defect and should honestly be covered by the manufacturer. No crying over spilt milk and now I have a job I can afford to fix it. It doesn't put me off buying Nord products in the future. Thanks for all you help, interest, and advice.
you don't have to check the cable or the fuse. Just see if the power supply is working by checking the output voltages. As a quick visual check, when you take the top cover off there is an led on the main board that you can see that will light up if the power supply is functional (although it won't tell you if all of the supply voltages are present).Mr_-G- wrote:Are you thinking in saving $$ by ordering the main board without knowing if that is really the problem?
I bet that you haven't asked how much the main board costs...
If I were you (and you are really confident about disassembling and using a multimeter on electric gear) I would check:
1) the cable
2) the the fuse
3) the switch
4) the power supply
5) the cables that interconnect the various boards
Only then I would consider whether it is the main board.
You can measure the voltages at switch and fuse also + test cable for continuity.Mr_-G- wrote:I might be missing something... if there is no output voltage from the power supply, how does one know if it is the cable, the fuse or the power supply itself?