UPDATE: I just saw the comment that not all pictures appeared. I hope this correction improves things.
I'm following up in this thread, as I was asked about my bespoke 2nd tier for the K&M 18880 stand. This could have easily gone into another thread, and I can cross post if needed.
Anyway, I've had some inquiries about the 2nd tier specs, and I want to share them. The tier design was inspired by the old Invisible Stands from the 1980's, which I think were the best keyboard stands ever made. I still have one in great shape, but don't use it for gigs because it's a bit too tall for playing while seated. The design is great because it brings the upper keyboard very close to the lower one.
The first picture includes the dimensions that I created. I first made a template out of cardboard, trimming to get the sized and angles I wanted. I've included measurements in both English and metric, and got as close as I could for accuracy. Please note that the drawing itself is not to scale, so don't try to make a template directly from it.
The important thing to note is that only a few of these numbers are critical. The post in the middle need to fit into the tube of the K&M stand. You can see in the picture below that I added a shim to the post so that it is wide enough to not wobble while in the stand. Had I used a wider piece of wood that would not have been necessary. The other critical number is the 1-18"/2.9cm just in front of the post, as it determines how the tier will sit on the front rail of the stand.
The distance from the post to the front was driven by how far forward my lower keyboard sits on the stand; If you use a deeper lower keyboard, this will be narrower. Likewise, the front height dimension is based on how high I wanted the front of the upper tier to be, and the tilt angle by how I wanted to view the upper tier. The triangle section at the rear is a stabilizer that supports the weight of the upper keyboard.
The black triangles are areas I shaved off largely for aesthetics. The exception is the small piece in front of the post. The K&M has a weld spot there, so the corner needed to be rounded off to fit correctly.
There is a flat top piece that sits on top of the wedge to provide a wider stable sitting area for the upper board. The whole thing was finished with black paint and clear coat.
Here are a few pictures of the unpainted finished product:
And painted:
The stuff on the top is that gooey pad that people put on their car dashboards to stick their mobile phones on, just cut to fit. It seemed like a cheap way to keep the upper keyboard from sliding.
I hope someone finds this useful.