Nord User Forum

OK, Pablo, I can see your point about disconnecting the key bed cables from the main PCB first. If I have occasion to work on one of these again, I'll update that.

I have a similar problem on a Nord Stage 73 (classic model), excepts that I get very limited response even though I hit the key hard. Should I try going through the same procedure?

And thanks, Marc, for the great take-apart guide!

If you're convinced it is an issue with that specific key (and it could very well be) you could. But before you do, ask yourself if you think you can do it without doing any more damage. In other words, do you trust yourself mucking about in the insides of your Nord.

I don't think it's actually that complicated, but you need to be careful and patient. You especially need to be careful you don't damage any of the ribbon cables, especially the ones going from the keybed to the mainboard on the bottom of the case (the ones with the orange connectors). You might want to take a picture of those orange connectors (and how they are connected) before you carefully pull them loose, as they are wider than the socket they plug in too. Marc's guide seems excellent and includes pictures of those orange connectors with nice big arrows pointing at the bits that overhang.

Pablo Mastodon wrote:PLEASE NOTE: There are expensive parts inside there and this is a delicate operation. While the job is easily within reach of folks with meaningful keyboard/electronics experience, novices are strongly encouraged to seek professional assistance.

If you open her up, have a look at what you're up against. And if you proceed, take your time and be gentle; you should have to use a lot of force.

Also, don't touch the mainboard or the circuit boards on the top panel and especially make sure you don't touch any of the components on power supply board that is to the right of the synth (you might get zapped). Of course, you started the whole operation by disconnecting the power, right?

msfoto wrote:Hi -
I did a write-up with pictures for anyone that needs this. Hope it's useful to someone!
-Marc

Nord Stage EX SW73 Compact Velocity Repair.pdf

Hi Marc,
Thank you for all your comments in this document.
I screw up a Roland U20 Keybed a few (15) years ago using some spray / cleaning on a rubber+circuit part
So I find these comments particularly valuable in your document :

The keys press down on the rubber covers. The rubber covers contain two carbonized nubs that each completes a circuit when pressed. The covers are held to the circuit board by more tiny nubs that are pressed through holes in the circuit board. These are fragile! You can gently peel them back if needed, but it’s quite possible that you can just blow your compressed air underneath of them. If you do remove them, avoid getting finger oil on the carbonized area and on the contact area on the boards. I STRONGLY advise not using chemicals or spray cleaners.
If you remove the rubber covers, they need to go back on in the exact same orientation. If you install them backwards, your keyboard will behave strangely!

Good luck funkylaundry.

Well, I was pretty nervous up front, but didn't really have much choice as I had a dead key on my E3 and another on the way. The only difference on my E3 was that there are 3 screws on each end cap. I found another thread around here that mentioned removing all but the 1 screw which allows you to pivot the control panel upwards to disconnect the first ribbon cable, and that worked out for me.
OTW, I am very grateful to Marc for taking the time to write this up. Thank you brother.

Hey all,

I just got a used Stage 2 SW73 and, unfortunately, after playing it for multiple hours at home tonight, I've noticed that C1 is significantly more sensitive and louder than the other keys. Is the PDF that Marc uploaded also applicable to the Stage 2 SW73 or just the Stage EX?

I'm fairly handy with electronics and was considering giving this a shot.

Also, what is the best approach for cleaning?

a) just disassemble and blow compressed air into the problem key without removing nub, reassemble and test
or
b) assume the rubber nub has to be removed on the problem key, just remove it, blow it out, replace it blow out other keys w/o removing as long as i'm there, reassemble and test

Finally, if I chicken out and decide to send it to someone, does anyone have a recommendation for someone in the bay area in CA?

Beyond this small issue, this keyboard is absolutely amazing. Upgraded from a Korg SV-1 and couldn't be happier! Thanks to you all for this killer forum too!

-max

Hi Mr. Max,

Welome to this public forum! You will find many friendly and helpful people here.

Rubber strip should be pulled back to reveal contact surfaces of the problem note for inspection and cleaning. Sometimes a little granule of sand, etc. lodges there and cannot easily be removed by compressed air -- a fingernail is needed. Marc created that .pdf based on a phone session he had with me and mostly got it right, though a couple details are suboptimal. NS2-73 same as NSEX-73.

I am your tech support rep and available for consultation by phone or email (see info below).

In (the other) Bay Area (I'm in Tampa Bay) you have Third Ear in Hayward (authorized Nord service shop) and East Bay Audio in Berkeley (Bruce knows what he's doing). Because those keybeds are made by Fatar, and because LOTS of brands use them, any reasonably competent keybed tech can handle a contact cleaning job.

Bless,

Pablo
Pablo Mastodon
pablo.mastodon@AmericanMusicandSound.com
800-994-4984 x3030

Thanks Pablo!

I think I'll play it for a few more days and see if I can pick up any other issues before disassembling or bringing it to a local shop. Also, Bruce has a 1w wait period and I don't think I could stand to be away from my new toy for that long

-max

msfoto wrote: I did a write-up with pictures for anyone that needs this. Hope it's useful to someone!
-Marc

Nord Stage EX SW73 Compact Velocity Repair.pdf

HI Marc
Just want to thank you for detailed keybed repair protocol.
My NS2 SW73 had the same problem with velocity: C3 key produced very low velocity values which resulted to almost silent or very quiet C3 on Piano and Synth (velocity sensitive) sections.
Organ section worked because it ignores velocity (that's the way to find out if the key is totally broken or just has velocity issue).

I followed your procedure and found a small piece of dust exactly as pictured on your photos.
Removing the dust solved the problem.

NS2 SW3 disassembling and assembling procedure is almost the same.
For those who want to fix keyboard issues: it is definitely prossible to DIY, just don't hurry and follow the procedure. All you need is a Philips screwdriver and patience.