DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
- gitarrenzupfer
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 30 Jul 2019, 10:19
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- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Lead A1
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DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
Hello everyone,
I've taken my original NORD A1 display project to the next level (viewtopic.php?t=21693)
Since the display looked a bit bulky in its separate housing, I initially wanted to try integrating the OLED directly into the housing. However, I abandoned this idea because I wanted to make as few modifications to the original housing as possible. Besides, I didn't know anyone with a precise aluminum cutter who would do it for free.
So, my first idea was to detach the actual OLED display from the OLED board, extend the OLED's flex cable, and glue the OLED's substrate (glass plate) to the housing. However, extending the flex cable by about 50 cm proved impossible due to technical and physical limitations (timing issues with the high-frequency digital connections).
So, in the end, I had no other option than to leave the OLED assembly intact and build a new, small housing just for the display. Controlled via I2C + power + reset (5-pin ribbon cable)
which is routed out through the back of the synth housing from inside. The advantage here was that I didn't have to drill any holes in the housing, as the ribbon cable fit between the housing halves.
Due to space constraints, I couldn't use neodymium magnets to attach the mini-display to the synth. Therefore, I used a 0.5 mm thick magnetic sheet, which I cut to fit the back of the OLED housing. The sheet's magnetic force was sufficient, as the mini-display was much lighter than the old, larger one.
So, I separated the OLED display from the original circuit board to hide it inside the synth housing. There's actually plenty of room for it. I chose the right side. I initially wanted to mount the SD card slot on the back of the synth, but realized it was much easier to create a 3D-printed side panel than to cut a slot into the back of the synth housing.
I was able to recreate the side panel relatively well in Autodesk Fusion 360. I only had to make a few minor adjustments to the SD card slot for the final version. I attached the circuit board itself to the underside of the synth using three screws and standoffs. The three holes were the only modification I made to the housing (3 x 2.5 mm holes).
I had originally planned to mount the SD card reader separately on the side panel, but that wasn't a good idea.
I found the 3D filament in a relatively good NORD color from a German manufacturer (perhaps interesting for European users due to short delivery times and high quality).
. 3D printing was done in a relatively good color match for NORD. I was able to create a . 3D-printed side panel. I was able to create a slot for the SD card reader on the back of the synth housing. . 3D printing was done in a German manufacturer (which might be of interest to European users due to short delivery times and high quality).
. 3D printing was done in a relatively good color match for NORD. . 3D printing was done in a German company ... https://filament-unger.de/
The color I used after testing some other colors (including those from other manufacturers)
https://filament-unger.de/collections/p ... la-perlrot
I've taken my original NORD A1 display project to the next level (viewtopic.php?t=21693)
Since the display looked a bit bulky in its separate housing, I initially wanted to try integrating the OLED directly into the housing. However, I abandoned this idea because I wanted to make as few modifications to the original housing as possible. Besides, I didn't know anyone with a precise aluminum cutter who would do it for free.
So, my first idea was to detach the actual OLED display from the OLED board, extend the OLED's flex cable, and glue the OLED's substrate (glass plate) to the housing. However, extending the flex cable by about 50 cm proved impossible due to technical and physical limitations (timing issues with the high-frequency digital connections).
So, in the end, I had no other option than to leave the OLED assembly intact and build a new, small housing just for the display. Controlled via I2C + power + reset (5-pin ribbon cable)
which is routed out through the back of the synth housing from inside. The advantage here was that I didn't have to drill any holes in the housing, as the ribbon cable fit between the housing halves.
Due to space constraints, I couldn't use neodymium magnets to attach the mini-display to the synth. Therefore, I used a 0.5 mm thick magnetic sheet, which I cut to fit the back of the OLED housing. The sheet's magnetic force was sufficient, as the mini-display was much lighter than the old, larger one.
So, I separated the OLED display from the original circuit board to hide it inside the synth housing. There's actually plenty of room for it. I chose the right side. I initially wanted to mount the SD card slot on the back of the synth, but realized it was much easier to create a 3D-printed side panel than to cut a slot into the back of the synth housing.
I was able to recreate the side panel relatively well in Autodesk Fusion 360. I only had to make a few minor adjustments to the SD card slot for the final version. I attached the circuit board itself to the underside of the synth using three screws and standoffs. The three holes were the only modification I made to the housing (3 x 2.5 mm holes).
I had originally planned to mount the SD card reader separately on the side panel, but that wasn't a good idea.
I found the 3D filament in a relatively good NORD color from a German manufacturer (perhaps interesting for European users due to short delivery times and high quality).
. 3D printing was done in a relatively good color match for NORD. I was able to create a . 3D-printed side panel. I was able to create a slot for the SD card reader on the back of the synth housing. . 3D printing was done in a German manufacturer (which might be of interest to European users due to short delivery times and high quality).
. 3D printing was done in a relatively good color match for NORD. . 3D printing was done in a German company ... https://filament-unger.de/
The color I used after testing some other colors (including those from other manufacturers)
https://filament-unger.de/collections/p ... la-perlrot
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- These users thanked the author gitarrenzupfer for the post (total 2):
- ericL, Nordlicht
Nord Wave 2, Nord Lead A1, Nord Electro 5D 73, Nord Piano 3, Yamaha DX7, Korg 01/W Pro X, Roland Juno alpha 2, Korg Poly 800, Yamaha S30, Yamaha CS2x, Yamaha P155
- gitarrenzupfer
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 30 Jul 2019, 10:19
- 6
- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Wave 2
- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Lead A1
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 58 times

Re: DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
To save as much filament as possible, I always printed the prototypes in the "wrong" colors, which I had previously ordered as 50g samples from the manufacturer.
MIDI:
I also wanted to handle the MIDI wiring internally. For this, I tapped directly into pins 4 and 5 on the MIDI Out. I tested the MIDI Out afterward and didn't encounter any problems when connecting other devices. Personally, I didn't need the MIDI Out on this keyboard anyway.
Power:
I also wanted to handle the display's power supply internally. This wasn't very complicated either. Since I didn't want to tap into the Nord Display's 5V rails, I simply disassembled a 5V USB power supply and soldered it directly behind the power switch (230V!!!). I don't need to mention that this kind of thing should only be done by people who know what they're doing and are aware of the deadly dangers involved!
I hope you enjoyed my report. If you have any questions, just ask...
Best regards,
Gitarrenzupfer
MIDI:
I also wanted to handle the MIDI wiring internally. For this, I tapped directly into pins 4 and 5 on the MIDI Out. I tested the MIDI Out afterward and didn't encounter any problems when connecting other devices. Personally, I didn't need the MIDI Out on this keyboard anyway.
Power:
I also wanted to handle the display's power supply internally. This wasn't very complicated either. Since I didn't want to tap into the Nord Display's 5V rails, I simply disassembled a 5V USB power supply and soldered it directly behind the power switch (230V!!!). I don't need to mention that this kind of thing should only be done by people who know what they're doing and are aware of the deadly dangers involved!
I hope you enjoyed my report. If you have any questions, just ask...
Best regards,
Gitarrenzupfer
- Attachments
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- PXL_20260409_144250699.jpg (1.5 MiB) Viewed 612 times
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- PXL_20260405_170054802.jpg (1.38 MiB) Viewed 612 times
Last edited by gitarrenzupfer on 10 Apr 2026, 23:00, edited 1 time in total.
- These users thanked the author gitarrenzupfer for the post:
- Nordlicht
Nord Wave 2, Nord Lead A1, Nord Electro 5D 73, Nord Piano 3, Yamaha DX7, Korg 01/W Pro X, Roland Juno alpha 2, Korg Poly 800, Yamaha S30, Yamaha CS2x, Yamaha P155
- gitarrenzupfer
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 30 Jul 2019, 10:19
- 6
- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Wave 2
- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Lead A1
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 58 times

Re: DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
The result...
with missing side panel
with missing side panel
- These users thanked the author gitarrenzupfer for the post:
- Nordlicht
Nord Wave 2, Nord Lead A1, Nord Electro 5D 73, Nord Piano 3, Yamaha DX7, Korg 01/W Pro X, Roland Juno alpha 2, Korg Poly 800, Yamaha S30, Yamaha CS2x, Yamaha P155
- gitarrenzupfer
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 30 Jul 2019, 10:19
- 6
- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Wave 2
- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Lead A1
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 58 times

Re: DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
Please excuse the mess of pictures. I was a bit overwhelmed... 
- These users thanked the author gitarrenzupfer for the post:
- ericL
Nord Wave 2, Nord Lead A1, Nord Electro 5D 73, Nord Piano 3, Yamaha DX7, Korg 01/W Pro X, Roland Juno alpha 2, Korg Poly 800, Yamaha S30, Yamaha CS2x, Yamaha P155
- ericL
- Patch Creator
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- 13
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Re: DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
Wow!!! Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
- These users thanked the author ericL for the post:
- gitarrenzupfer
Nords: NE2, NS2 88, NS3 Compact x 2
Live rig: NS3, Vent, Radial KL-8, Shure PSM-900 IEM Rig, UE18 & UE7 IEMs.
Studio: Hammond A-101 & Leslie 122, Yamaha CP-80, Yamaha S90, NS2, DSI Prophet-6, Vent II, Roland JX-8P.
Live rig: NS3, Vent, Radial KL-8, Shure PSM-900 IEM Rig, UE18 & UE7 IEMs.
Studio: Hammond A-101 & Leslie 122, Yamaha CP-80, Yamaha S90, NS2, DSI Prophet-6, Vent II, Roland JX-8P.
- gitarrenzupfer
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 30 Jul 2019, 10:19
- 6
- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Wave 2
- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Lead A1
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 58 times

Re: DIY NORD LEAD A1 OLED Display - Next Level
Nord Wave 2, Nord Lead A1, Nord Electro 5D 73, Nord Piano 3, Yamaha DX7, Korg 01/W Pro X, Roland Juno alpha 2, Korg Poly 800, Yamaha S30, Yamaha CS2x, Yamaha P155
