Stage 4 DIY Cable Issue

[dutchwives]

I am attempting to clean the keys and sensors because a few keys have been occasionally giving higher velocity values than they should. It was going well until I got to the ribbon cables, which appear different to those from other stage model repairs I watched on youtube. I just don't see any latch or lock mechanism on the connector. I've tried flipping or prying up the connector with a fingernail and a spudger and nowhere does it seem to budge or release, and I'm afraid I'll damage the cable if I just pull it out. But it does look to me like that's the only way to get it out. Does anyone know if that's the case?

[FZiegler]

There is a chance that you need to push the black bar to the right in order to loosen the connection. Then to pull the cable. But I'm not sure about that.

If it's a Stage 4 - is there no warranty left for your board?

[dutchwives]

Bought second-hand so was ok with opening it. It doesn't look too difficult to clean the sensors myself from tutorials as soon as I figure out these cables, and synth places around here can take months just for a basic job.

[pterm]

This looks like this type of Cable/Receptical (Non-ZIF - non-Zero Insertion Force):
Amphenol HFW
Please confirm if the conductor spacing is 1mm. If correct (or similar), this type of connector provides no latch but instead relies on spring force of the contacts to retain the flat flexible cable. For the connector listed above:

The insertion force is 1.7N (max) per contact (22 contacts) so may require up to 8.5 pounds to insert.
The retention force is 0.49N (max) per contact, so requires up to 2.5 pounds to remove.
The connector is only rated for 10 mating cycles, so try to minimize mating/unmating.

Be careful not to kink the cable when inserting and removing. That is, the cable should be kept parallel to the circuit board while inserting.
See this guide for reference:
Amphenol HFW Guide

In my experience, a very small amount of side to side wiggling helps ease the mating. This allows mating of a few contacts at a time, Instead of mating all 22 contacts simultaneously (so it requires lower force).

Good luck! Please confirm what you find and if my information proves applicable and useful.

[dutchwives]

Thanks for this info. You are correct on the type of connector. You have to use an amount of force that is uncomfortable to use but the cable will pull out and insert with force. Sadly, these cables are extremely fragile and I must have gotten a kink in the cable, as there are several clusters of notes that are now unresponsive. Fortunately, they are cheap (22 pin 1mm pitch) so I ordered replacements which are available on Amazon. Everything else about removing the keys and getting to the sensors for cleaning is identical to what you see on Stage 2/3 videos and not very difficult. I'm not sure if they made changes to how easily the rubber strips over the key sensors insert to the board, but I found them very easy to re-insert. I expected difficulty as people struggled on other Stage models, but no paperclip or anything was necessary. Just a simple massage while pressing over the insert hole and the prongs slid right in.

[pterm]

@dutchwives - I see you just joined... Welcome to the Forum!
I'm sorry my answer didn't reach you in time to avoid the problem you had.

Be sure the contacts on your new cables match those on the old ones (that is, are they on the same surface). Cables occasionally provide one conductor mating surface on the top, the other on the bottom. If they differ (also check the length), don't waste time (and a mating cycle) trying them.

The cables sometimes come with an adhesive-attached stiffener to ease insertion, - so compare the construction (and thickness) of the cable ends to see if they differ - this might affect your insertion experience with the new ones.

Good luck - If you see anything anomalous or concerning about your new cables, please post again - I usually check the forum every day. Please let us know how your repair goes.