Rotor Toggle not working correctly

[Mr_-G-]

Seriously? This is a high priced keyboard, and now I should start to fiddle around and modify something on my own to make it work properly? Not really. I think this job is up to the Nord company. It is called service. Make something work the way it was supposed to do. Can´t be that difficult, other "not so premium" keyboards can do it, too.

Yes, it was a genuine suggestion. I must say I was also surprised by the tone of your reply; in general people here are grateful when somebody suggests a fix or a workaround.
So, good luck! I genuinely hope that issue gets resolved soon.

[PolishPrince]

I received by Boss FS-5L pedals today. I plugged it into the rotor pedal input and tested it for 15 minutes without without without a single glitch. I don't think that there's anything wrong with my Yamaha FC5 pedals because they work flawlessly with my 2 old synths (using one as a Portomento switch since 1984 and the other one as a sustain pedal since 1986). But, for some reason, my NS3C doesn't get along with it. So, problem solved for me by using the Boss FS-5L.

[RedSchwartz]

Having this issue too, thought it was the pedal but have tried two and the issue (intermittent, of course) happens with both.

The only solution I have found is to toggle the "stop mode" button. That has seemed to get the rotor pedal back to working.

[lerber3]

The solution is trivial for Nord to patch*

Most damper pedals do not contain debouncing circuitry so occasionally they glitch when transitioning up or down. The glitch looks like an extra up/down (or down/up). The glitch interval is milliseconds, so all Nord has to do is add software debouncing to ignore ridiculously fast pedal transitions when the pedal is working in TOGGLE mode.

Also, apologies if this answer is somewhere in this thread... I just jumped to the end and saw that people were still complaining. In any event, the problem seems super simple to fix in software*

* if the second paragraph is actually true... I am really just guessing based on playing around with different damper pedals. : ). Some are worse on the down, some are worse on the up.

[marka3459]

My rotary out quit working.I've tried several pedals,Yamaha,Kurzweil,Boss..none triggers the rotary effect to change speed...pedals work on other jacks ie sustain,moving programs up or down..any help would be appreciated

[maxpiano]

My rotary out quit working.I've tried several pedals,Yamaha,Kurzweil,Boss..none triggers the rotary effect to change speed...pedals work on other jacks ie sustain,moving programs up or down..any help would be appreciated

How is the Rotor Pedal Type set in System menu? Check it is not set as Half Moon and/or try to change it to match the pedal type you use.

[baekgaard]

Baekgaard has the best solution, one I've used on every Leslie speed control I've had since 1964, a latching foot switch. They are extremely reliable and switch contact bounce is never a problem. If you also have a sustain pedal you'll get them confused or never accidentally connect the wrong pedal to your keyboard's inputs. Here is a good, inexpensive one that perhaps you can buy from a local source in Norway: https://www.thomannmusic.no/fender_1but ... switch.htm

[be lee vit]

Or if you're like me and don't get on well with the small round metal buttons frequently seen on these latching switches you there is an option that is shaped squarish like a Yamaha FC5. You just need to make sure it's the latching variation. I believe FSC-501 is latching while FSC-502 and -503 are momentary.
https://hosatech.com/products/analog-au ... s/fsc-500/

[Dipol]

Baekgaard has the best solution, one I've used on every Leslie speed control I've had since 1964, a latching foot switch. They are extremely reliable and switch contact bounce is never a problem. If you also have a sustain pedal you'll get them confused or never accidentally connect the wrong pedal to your keyboard's inputs. Here is a good, inexpensive one that perhaps you can buy from a local source in Norway: https://www.thomannmusic.no/fender_1but ... switch.htm

I actually got that exact foot switch a couple of months ago! Just so I don't have to worry about using one of my sustain pedals where contact bounce isn't an issue. For anybody else having this problem that (or a similar) FS is a good, inexpensive solution. Guess the NS3 has a separate rotor pedal input jack for a reason

[steviehutch]

Hi. I have had the same problem of erratic rotary switching when using the rotor pedal socket on my NE6 but I believe I have found the reason why this happens. As stated in many of the previous posts some sustain pedals work and some don't. The problem seems to be that the software in the keyboard is very critical at receiving a clean open and closed switching signal. It has to be a 100% clean close and a 100% clean break. If the micro switch is worn or dirty it will not give a clean 100% contact whist making or breaking. The Nord sees this as being more than one make or break even though the pedal might work perfectly as a sustain pedal and register as working on a test meter. The solution is to always use a new condition footswitch or one that has a quality microswitch in its circuitry. I hope this helps to solve this particular problem for everyone.