I have a nla1 and noticed that the shift button occasionally (very rarely) register double presses when pressed once.
This is only noticeable because I can be ocd sometimes; I’m sure the average user would likely not think twice and press the button again.
ie when pressimg shift+program/perf to go into store mode and letting go of shift, with the digits blinking, maybe once every fifty times the store operation is not blinking, as if shift was pressed again and it exited store mode.
Overall it’s working well and maybe i’m expecting too much from the electronics?
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How often do you get double presses from buttons?
Last edited by varignet on 02 Apr 2022, 13:57, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: How often do you get double presses from buttons?
Yes, I also notice this sometimes when saving, I assumed it was the store button. Haven't noticed any double triggering with the other buttons. (NL4)
Last edited by Execbat on 15 May 2022, 00:14, edited 1 time in total.
Re: How often do you get double presses from buttons?
Common failure mode for these types of buttons. I had to replace literally every single one on my NL3 because of this. They have a copper mating surface between the contacts and copper corrodes easily. There's probably some sort of light coating on them from the factory to prevent ordinary corrosion but with wear and perhaps excess humidity or other environmental factors (liquid spills, cigarette smoke, etc) the coating can be insufficient.
You can do a quick fix by disassembling the switch (it is not a hard job if you're not a klutz and know your way around electronic assembly for the most part - the boards come off the front panel with nothing more than simple tools and some care, and the switch itself disassembles with a couple small plastic clips pushed in the right way - it's fairly obvious if you're carefully observant. If it's not clear to you, take it to someone who can do the job properly, don't bodge around with it.
Once apart, the corrosion is likely evident on the switch components and can be removed with some Deoxit D5 to clean, followed by D100 to protect, or any similar chemicals. I use MG Chemicals Super Contact Cleaner with PPE in it, for instance, with good success, although that one is a little better suited to protecting gold plated contacts than bare copper. Apply the cleaner with a dropper to only the switch internals, work the switch several times, clean it once more to flush any abrasive particles away, then apply the D100 and work the switch a few more times to fully lubricate it. Reassemble, and it'll last a good while. When it starts to do it again (or any other switch acts up) repeat the process.
When that no longer does the trick for very long, you'll need to replace the switch itself, but with how recent the NLA1s are, you shouldn't have that problem for at least another decade or two, so long as you don't abuse the synth or smoke around it (or use it in heavy stage fog, get it rained on/beer spilled, etc). The switches are still available third party from Mouser and other companies and can be replaced in a few minutes with a professional soldering station and a trained hand.
You can do a quick fix by disassembling the switch (it is not a hard job if you're not a klutz and know your way around electronic assembly for the most part - the boards come off the front panel with nothing more than simple tools and some care, and the switch itself disassembles with a couple small plastic clips pushed in the right way - it's fairly obvious if you're carefully observant. If it's not clear to you, take it to someone who can do the job properly, don't bodge around with it.
Once apart, the corrosion is likely evident on the switch components and can be removed with some Deoxit D5 to clean, followed by D100 to protect, or any similar chemicals. I use MG Chemicals Super Contact Cleaner with PPE in it, for instance, with good success, although that one is a little better suited to protecting gold plated contacts than bare copper. Apply the cleaner with a dropper to only the switch internals, work the switch several times, clean it once more to flush any abrasive particles away, then apply the D100 and work the switch a few more times to fully lubricate it. Reassemble, and it'll last a good while. When it starts to do it again (or any other switch acts up) repeat the process.
When that no longer does the trick for very long, you'll need to replace the switch itself, but with how recent the NLA1s are, you shouldn't have that problem for at least another decade or two, so long as you don't abuse the synth or smoke around it (or use it in heavy stage fog, get it rained on/beer spilled, etc). The switches are still available third party from Mouser and other companies and can be replaced in a few minutes with a professional soldering station and a trained hand.
- 23skidoo
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Re: How often do you get double presses from buttons?
Before disassembling anything, try putting the hose of a vacuum cleaner (possibly with the slit/narrow adapter) directly over the button, sealing as much as possible so that it creates maximum suction.
If the problem is not corrosion but simply dust, it will go away. It's the first thing I try when I have buttons not triggering or double triggering, and it usually works
If the problem is not corrosion but simply dust, it will go away. It's the first thing I try when I have buttons not triggering or double triggering, and it usually works
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