General Discussion of the Nord Stage (EX), Nord Stage 2 (EX), and Nord Stage 3 Synths, FAQ, Troubleshooting etc.

Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Hobster » 23 May 2020, 00:14

Normski wrote:...After all its just an on off switch.

I believe that after-touch is done on the Nord using a variable pressure sensitive resistor (or 'force sensitive resistor').
Yes there are only two physical connections, but the resistance between the two terminals varies analoguely (not digitally - on/off) according to pressure.
The continuously variable resistance can be 'measured' by the Nord's processor circuitry to then provide a continuously variable signal to wherever it's needed.
Last edited by Hobster on 24 May 2020, 00:40, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)


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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Normski » 23 May 2020, 12:12

*
Last edited by Normski on 23 May 2020, 22:45, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby DougB217 » 23 May 2020, 15:18

I know that this is of no help whatsoever, but if my keyboards didn’t have AT it wouldn’t bother me at all. I never use it and can’t understand why I’d want to hold the keys and then press harder. I’ll use the mod wheel or an expression pedal for that purpose.
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Valpurgis » 23 May 2020, 16:11

Normski wrote:Guys I am not disputing Pablo’ trustworthiness, I have just suggested a temporary fix for a cable.

Agree with you. But not sure how easy it would be to connect a shorting substance (wire) to the resistive material in the AF strip.
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Mr_-G- » 23 May 2020, 16:27

Normski wrote:Guys I am not disputing Pablo’ trustworthiness, I have just suggested a temporary fix for a cable.


I think that connecting together the two connectors of the broken Force Sensitive Resistor (that it the name you can find them in the net) won't fix anything as the FSR lowers the resistance when force is applied.
Unless, of course the resistor was shorted (constantly in maximum After Touch), in which case desoldering it from the circuit would bring it back to no-after touch state.
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Normski » 23 May 2020, 22:46

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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Normski » 23 May 2020, 22:48

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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Elias » 24 May 2020, 12:06

Mr_-G- wrote:Unless, of course the resistor was shorted (constantly in maximum After Touch), in which case desoldering it from the circuit would bring it back to no-after touch state.

Here is a bad (horrible) idea: Put a momentary switch there instead of shorting and you have impulse morph. :thumbup:
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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby Bjosko » 24 May 2020, 14:03

DougB217 wrote:I know that this is of no help whatsoever, but if my keyboards didn’t have AT it wouldn’t bother me at all. I never use it and can’t understand why I’d want to hold the keys and then press harder. I’ll use the mod wheel or an expression pedal for that purpose.


I agree here. It are nice to have, but hard to handle, at least on my HP.
Was about to write a roman here, but it might not help the OP.
I would not care much if mine was broken either, compared with the work involved to fix it.
/Bjørn

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Re: Keybed side ribbon torn (Aftertouch Cable - NS3 88HA)

Postby amedouce » 30 May 2020, 21:56

OK, after a painstaking learning curve, I have been able to fix the issue. Pablo is right, it is indeed a huge pain in the backside to replace this aftertouch strip, but not impossible, assuming you can find the strip from an 88 Fatar keybed - if you cannot find it, you don't have any choice but to replace the whole keybed. If you were so lucky to find it (I'm only now beginning to comprehend the enormity of my luck, as well as the grandeur of my stupidity), Pablo is also right in saying that many things could go wrong if you are not careful, so do this at your own risk. Gauging by how long it took me to do this, this will cost A LOT to fix by a tech. But if you do want to do it yourself, here's how:

You'll need:
* A 6-point star bit with a matching screwdriver to remove most screws.
* A small flathead screwdriver to remove other screws and to remove the white keys.
* Double sided tape (the narrowest you can find. I couldn't find anything thinner than 3/4", and I had to fit that exactly to the narrower strip in order for the springs not to hit it).
* A cutter.

1) Remove ALL screws from around the keyboard (sides, back and bottom) to allow the cover to come off. Put in a labeled bag and set aside (!!)
2) Remove the 6 screws that are holding the keybed in place. Put in a labeled bag and set aside. TAKE A PHOTO of where the screws were at. If you do place the keybed in the right positioning you will see it right away even if you did not take a photo, but that will help to avoid any confusion.
3) Disconnect all cables that connect the keybed to the motherboard to allow the cover to come off as well as the keybed to be taken out (it is located right under a metal bar, so you'd need to pull it up from the front of the keybed to remove it. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TEAR THE OTHER AFTERTOUCH STRIP.
4) Once the keybed is out, the real pain begins. You'd have to take ALL WHITE KEYS out. You'll need a small flathead screwdriver to insert into the pink latch to remove the key. I removed all white keys with my fingers and it is still sore - eventually I realized I could use a small plyer to grab the keys after releasing them with the flathead screwdriver, and it worked even better.
5) Once all keys are removed, you will see the aftertouch strips spread below the keys. I had to replace the one for the white keys, so it was the one at the bottom. Safely remove the torn/malfunctioning AT (aftertouch) strip.
6) Take the new strip and place it on one side of the double-sided tape. I highly recommend to put it right at the edge of the tape, so you can cut the excess comfortably. If you don't cut it exactly at the same width of the strip, you are risking the springs to hit it and you will then get sticky keys.
7) Place the new strip to the front-most part of the keyboard, right beside the white holders. Again, this will refrain from the springs to hit it and you will avoid having sticky keys.
8) I HIGHLY recommend - before you are putting all the keys back in, use a tool (the backside of scissors/screwdriver/knife) to check every single key to see that its spring is not impeded by the new strip. I already started putting the keys in before I started noticing sticky keys, and I had to take it out again and redo the whole thing. Not recommended.
9) Suggestion: Put only a few white keys back in and reconnect all the connectors, without putting any screws back to close the keyboard just yet. If all connectors are connected securely, the keyboard will turn on (if it does not turn on, one of the connectors is likely loose). Choose a patch that has an aftertouch capability and test the aftertouch for the white keys. If the operation was successful, you will hear the AT response.
10) Assuming that the operation was successful, close down the keyboard (first screwing in the 6 keybed screws again) and you will be back on track.

More than anything - DO NOT TEAR YOUR AFTERTOUCH STRIP! :lol:

Hoping this helps somebody in the future!
Last edited by amedouce on 30 May 2020, 22:00, edited 2 times in total.

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