Dead keys on my Nord Electro 3

[dubtrack]

Suddenly one of my keys are dead when I play pianosounds on my Electro 3. This happens not when I'm in organ-mode.
Any suggestions?

[pterm]

Hi Dubtrack,
Welcome to the forum.
Your problem is pretty common: Debris in the key contact is the cause. The keybed needs to be disassembled and the contact cleaned. Please log in to the forum and search for "dead key" or "key contacts" to find more info.

This video explains the basics of how to fix (if you want to try yourself): https://youtu.be/sjFOACAOLas

Keep a dust cover on your keyboard when not using the Nord to reduce occurrence.
-pterm

[Jeanco]

my first time seeing this vid -- at first I was hopeful that he would do a good job, but it's really pretty awful with some really bad advice here and there, in the sequence he chooses to remove screws. More importantly, he is instructing you to remove all screws and THEN disconnect ribbon cables. This is spectacularly bad advice. He's very sloppy with the instrument, turning it over to rest its full weight on the knobs is poor practice. Plus, it's too damned long and he rambles on and on about foolishness that has little/nothing to do with the actual repair. I couldn't bear to watch the whole thing...

I guess I need to do my own vid...

meanwhile, here are a couple of tips which will avoid some of his potentially risky mistakes:

THIS APPLIES TO SW actions only:

1) DO NOT turn your instrument upside and rest its weight on the front panel knobs; you might get away with it, but it's very bad practice. I use a couple old pieces of scavenged packing foam, one on each end where there are no knobs, to support the instrument's weight

2) the FIRST screws to be removed should be the ones on the underside of the lower chassis -- you will see two parallel rows of screws with small heads -- do not disturb these yet -- there will be 1-3 others with larger heads -- remove them

3) remove all screws from rear of instrument as shown in vid, and also remove all screws from wooden end caps EXCEPT the two, one on each side, at the bottom rear -- these will serve as hinge pins momentarily

4) at this point it is possible to lift the lid from the tips of the wooden end caps and the entire upper chassis will open like the hood/bonnet on a car -- disconnect cabling between panelboard(s) and mainboard at the mainboard end -- set the lid back down, remove the final two wooden end cap screws, and remove the upper chassis assembly and place it across the room in a safe place --performing this operation with the upper chassis still attached to the instrument is just plain stupid and inviting a problem

5) disconnect all cabling between keybed and mainboard, turn lower chassis upside down and remove all screws from dual parallel line pattern -- when done, lift the lower chassis assembly up and place it in a safe place across the room

you are now looking at the upside down keybed assembly with the contact PCBs in plain view and can proceed to remove and clean them

THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE A FULL-BLOWN HOW-TO GUIDE, JUST SMOOTHING THROUGH SOME ASPECTS OF BAD ADVICE OFFERED BY OTHERS
IF YOU GO INSIDE YOUR INSTRUMENT, KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. IT IS EASY TO DAMAGE THINGS WHICH WILL COST MUCH MORE THAN THE
MONEY YOU ARE SAVING BY ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM THIS CLEANING OPERATION AS A DIY

ALSO, BE AWARE THAT STATIC ELECTRICITY EXISTS AND CAN DO SERIOUS DAMAGE TO INTERNAL COMPONENTS.
IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DON'T GO THERE!