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So I made wood sides for him, too. Not red, though, that would just be wrong.
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Incidentally, this guy is up for sale in the for-sale section, if anyone is interested. It was a fun experiment, I'm going to have to make more accessories for synths. I like combining the natural elements which is why I love the stone mod wheel and wood pitch stick on the Nords. And the wood sides, of course.
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These users thanked the author bdodds for the post (total 3):
I'm Just curious why you got the Little Phatty. What gap did it fill?
I have an NS2 and a rack2X. I'm not sure if I am just not a great sound designer yet but I can't get deep phat sounds out of my Nord stuff. Is that why you got the Moog?
(I guess I'm trying to undestand if I am the problem or is there some other equipment i need. I like to buy stuff i "need" but hate to collect it.)
That is indeed a Voyager Signature Edition serial number 000066, signed by Bob himself!
The Phatty sounds great and is very easy to tweak live, which is why I use it mainly. I used to take the Voyager out, but it's one of a kind (well, 1 of 600, but still) and the Phatty has a lot of the sound - a little more raw - but easy to tweak. It's not that I can't get similar sounds from my Nord, in fact I use the synth section of my Stage often, but mostly for samples or polyphonic synth sounds. Typically I comp something on organ and play a lead line on synth, and having two separate boards, while not required with the stage's split features, makes it a little more sane to manage. Plus it looks cool and is small, so it's not a huge stage-space addition.
clavia ddrum4
nord lead rack 2
nord electro 73 (sold!)
nord stage classic 88 (sold!)
nord electro 3 73 (sold!)
nord stage 2 compact
mjbrands wrote:Just wondering: were you able to route out space for the metal side plates to sit in?
Initially I was going to do this, but then I realized they're not necessary. The wood provides the necessary structural rigidity, which is I'm sure one reason it's there, and the replacement mounting plate for power and the switch takes care of the other reason for it. I noticed no ill-effects of omitting them.
clavia ddrum4
nord lead rack 2
nord electro 73 (sold!)
nord stage classic 88 (sold!)
nord electro 3 73 (sold!)
nord stage 2 compact
bdodds wrote:Initially I was going to do this, but then I realized they're not necessary. The wood provides the necessary structural rigidity, which is I'm sure one reason it's there, and the replacement mounting plate for power and the switch takes care of the other reason for it. I noticed no ill-effects of omitting them.
I had a Little Phatty Signature edition at some point (traded it for an NL2X ) which came with wooden side panels. It had those metal plates on the inside and I assumed it was to shield the insides (mostly the analog electronics) better from outside noise.
That said, noise could still come in via the keyboard, since there isn't really any shielding in there either.
Good point on the RFI, I'm thinking I'll maybe apply a foil to the inside in the same pattern to accomplish the same thing, just in case. I figured it was structural, the metal provides the positive reinforcement surface for the power plug, which is a high-stress area that wouldn't work with the thinner plastic alone.
clavia ddrum4
nord lead rack 2
nord electro 73 (sold!)
nord stage classic 88 (sold!)
nord electro 3 73 (sold!)
nord stage 2 compact
) which came with wooden side panels. It had those metal plates on the inside and I assumed it was to shield the insides (mostly the analog electronics) better from outside noise.
