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Re: Fixing dead keys on my Nord Piano 2 HA88
Thank you,csciguy8!! You saved my life and this of my NS2. Now it works perfektly again.
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- Kristian
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 2
Re: Fixing dead keys on my Nord Piano 2 HA88
Thank you for your great description. I had the same problem with one key (Piano 1 HA88), but now it is fixed.
- Leslie_122
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Piano
- Your Nord Gear #2: Nord Stage 4
Re: Fixing dead keys on my Nord Piano 2 HA88
Thank you for this great tutorial! It helped me to teardown and fix my Stage 3.
My keyboard was a mess, I cleaned it up and "voila", it's works again.
Thank you very much!
Paulo
My keyboard was a mess, I cleaned it up and "voila", it's works again.
Thank you very much!
Paulo
- pauloosler
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 3
Re: Fixing dead keys on my Nord Piano 2 HA88
I just did this on my beloved ten-year-old Stage 2 with a dead Ab6. Gave the whole contact surface and membrane a light wipe with IPA and problem solved! Of course that makes it sound easy: the disassembly takes a long time and a lot of care, and your pictures and guide (and the comments of others) really helped. Thanks so much!
I have some little pointers that might help others:
* I tested all the diodes before I started, and they all had about 700 ohms forward resistance in circuit.
* I also kept both halves of the keyboard PCB together. I didn’t want to, but I managed to snap one of the retaining lugs off the similar connector on the main PCB so I was nervous about doing it again.
* Getting the membrane back on the PCB was very fiddly but I found that if I got the large posts through the board, the smaller ones would sort themselves out if I just massaged it a little. A few of the large posts were really stubborn and I ended up pulling them through with thin-nosed tweezers. Probably not wise but I was getting desperate!
* The last strut at the bottom end of the keyboard fits the opposite way round, so be careful to keep track of what goes where. I ended up marking the screw-holes on the PCB with a sharpie because there were just so many, and not all of them were populated. I used one dash for a strut screw, two dashes for a PCB screw.
* As pablomastodon said above, be very careful of the thin aftertouch cable on the left-hand-side of the keyboard. I ended up disconnecting it from the two blue connectors, carefully peeling it off the two sticky pads, and unthreading it from the body of the case. The sticky pads were pretty much gone anyway but it was a scary moment. I took a ‘before’ picture so you can see what I’m talking about.
I have some little pointers that might help others:
* I tested all the diodes before I started, and they all had about 700 ohms forward resistance in circuit.
* I also kept both halves of the keyboard PCB together. I didn’t want to, but I managed to snap one of the retaining lugs off the similar connector on the main PCB so I was nervous about doing it again.
* Getting the membrane back on the PCB was very fiddly but I found that if I got the large posts through the board, the smaller ones would sort themselves out if I just massaged it a little. A few of the large posts were really stubborn and I ended up pulling them through with thin-nosed tweezers. Probably not wise but I was getting desperate!
* The last strut at the bottom end of the keyboard fits the opposite way round, so be careful to keep track of what goes where. I ended up marking the screw-holes on the PCB with a sharpie because there were just so many, and not all of them were populated. I used one dash for a strut screw, two dashes for a PCB screw.
* As pablomastodon said above, be very careful of the thin aftertouch cable on the left-hand-side of the keyboard. I ended up disconnecting it from the two blue connectors, carefully peeling it off the two sticky pads, and unthreading it from the body of the case. The sticky pads were pretty much gone anyway but it was a scary moment. I took a ‘before’ picture so you can see what I’m talking about.
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Fluppy - Posts: 4
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 2
14 posts
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