Hi Huys,
I do not know if this is the right place to post this, but i'm kind of desperate. Yesterday I was playing my nord and then it just turned off. I changed the power cord and it did not start again.
I live in Brazil, and searching in internet, I find out that the problem should be the fuse. But the problem is that I can't find this part to replace in my keyboard here in mt country, and I don't even know if this is the real issue. I bought the keyboard in January from a friend, and it's the firs time that I have problem with it.
Also for information, I use 110v in every places I play, and I saw that the fuse is 125mA.
Sorry for my bad english, but I need help.
Thanks in advance
Darlan Sodre
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- darlansodre
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 2
Re: My Nord Stage 2 won't turn on
Hm... as far as I know the fuse for 220-240V is 125mA and for 110-115V it should be 300mA (in both cases the type is "slo-blo", 250V). So if you are running at 110V directly (that is, without a transformer), then you have the wrong fuse.
I wonder if your friend bought the kbd set for 220V and changed the switch of the power supply, but did not know that the fuse also needs changing.
There *has* to be some supplier that has those fuses. They are not that rare.
You can check whether the fuse is blown with a tester.
I wonder if your friend bought the kbd set for 220V and changed the switch of the power supply, but did not know that the fuse also needs changing.
There *has* to be some supplier that has those fuses. They are not that rare.
You can check whether the fuse is blown with a tester.
Last edited by Mr_-G- on 22 Sep 2016, 00:45, edited 1 time in total.
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Mr_-G- - Moderator
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 2
Re: My Nord Stage 2 won't turn on
When I bought from him, he told me that he had switched the power to 110v. I dont use transformer, just switched in the keyboard. Here in Brazil, the default is 110v... Do you think there is problem if I keep using the 125mA fuse? I found it in a store.
- darlansodre
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- Your Nord Gear #1: Nord Stage 2
Re: My Nord Stage 2 won't turn on
Well you would think the total wattage of the device is the same so if you reduce the input voltage and the device draws constant power, you need to increase the amperage rating of the fuse to accommodate the same wattage. The formula (basic electric theory) is below :
P = I * E where P = Power(Wattage) I = Current (no clue why they used I) and E = Voltage (no clue why the used E)
or restated the below are also true.
I = P/E
E= P/I
If total current through the fuse in UK is say 240v * 125ma = 30 Watts power consumption
Now apply only 120 volts with 30 Watts and you get 30/120= .25 ( or 250ma) for same wattage your fuse will blow unless the device is running at 1/2 wattage which is not likely.
In a nutshell I think your fuse is now underrated and subject to blowing given the same wattage use (which should be fairly constant)
P = I * E where P = Power(Wattage) I = Current (no clue why they used I) and E = Voltage (no clue why the used E)
or restated the below are also true.
I = P/E
E= P/I
If total current through the fuse in UK is say 240v * 125ma = 30 Watts power consumption
Now apply only 120 volts with 30 Watts and you get 30/120= .25 ( or 250ma) for same wattage your fuse will blow unless the device is running at 1/2 wattage which is not likely.
In a nutshell I think your fuse is now underrated and subject to blowing given the same wattage use (which should be fairly constant)
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