Nord User Forum

[wartaler]

Hi!

I want to remove some keys from my NS88 (Classic)

I have a few squeaking keys, so I want to get underneath with some lube

I already lifted the keybed out of the Stage, but now I'm not sure how to get indivdual keys out,

It's a Fatar TP/40 keybed, the keys are attached to some pink bits of plastic, I can't properly see how they are attached -

On other forums I've read that you need a flat screwdriver to push >something< and the key will come loose after pushing or pulling the key >in some direction<,

Now before breaking anything I wondered if any of you know exactly where to push with the screwdriver, and how to move the key to get it out

Thanks!

Albert

[wartaler]

[EDIT: posts of someone trying to help me here were removed - therefore it looks like I'm responding to myself in this thread - looks rather weird:

Thanks,

Sorry, I didn't find it on that page either,

Perhaps I overlooked it, but

it describes how Fatar keyboards are built in general, and how the triggers work, / to clean them, and it shows pictures of waterfall keys, where you first remove the big spring and then the key,

In my case (weighted keys) the springs are small and fixed underneath each key, the hinge is a pink plastic blob holding the key, rotating around a long pin that spans the width of the keyboard

I want to check for bits of plastic leftovers of casting, put some silicone grease on moving parts, really want to remove them keys ...

Albert

[wartaler]

Hi,

The TP/40 doesn't have springs that can easily be removed, or, not sure, ...

see pics attached

[mjbrands]

Find some suitable pliers (is that the right word?) with a very narrow beak. Put the beak in the spring, pull up to get the top bit out of the cup in the key and then move it away from the key a bit where you can lower it (as shown in the picture). Do this gently and don't let the spring go when it is still under some strain. To mount the spring again, put back the key and lift up the front with one hand (so the cup near the spring is at its lowest point). With the other hand, use the pliers to grip the spring at the top and hook it under the board on which the keys are mounted (check the other keys to see where). Now pull up and move the spring back into its original place and lower it gently. Squaky keys is often caused by the spring making noise in the cup of the key, as described in the page Hanon linked.

The keyword for this whole thing is gently. Take you time and don't rush things, get someone to help you if you find you'd need more hands. Also, if you are regreasing the keys make sure you use the right kind of lube. It needs to be plastic compatible (regular lubes may damage plastics). I haven't lubed my keys yet and don't know what the best type would be, but I think white lithium grease would work well. It is used for all kinds of things, such as remote controlled cars, etc. Finding it (especially online) shouldn't be that hard and a small tube (or some other container) should be rather cheap.

Edit: derp, read post, respond later. Wrong type of keys

[mjbrands]

Another view.

This is from a page (http://music-electronics-forum.com/t22870/#post192813) where the last post states:

It involved looking at the keyboard from a playing position (i.e., from the front) and pushing directly downwards (i.e., vertically) on the tab with a small flat-head screwdriver. I was thinking that I would need to push the tab horizontally inwards from the back of the keyboard, and this was getting me nowhere.

At the end it contains a link to the home recording forum you probably checked.

[wartaler]

Thanks, I managed to get the keys out!

1) Open the Stage; remove the 3 (NS88 classic) screws in the raised recess, there's a lot of larger head screws, just take out the smaller headed screws in the sunken bit, remove all screws from the wooden cheeks, remove the screws in the rear holding the red and black together, then: hold the cheeks, lift a bit (!!) and then rotate backward as a car bonnet ..

2) carefully remove all the connections to the mainboard, remove the mainboard: 3 screws, and don't forget to remove the nuts of the jack connectors, and the screws of the Midi ports from the rear.. !

3) remove the rest of the screws from the bottom (you can already do that in step 1), remove all nuts on the inside holding the keybed, lift the keybed out - by holding the metal frame only (!)..

4) Sitting in front of the keys, place a screwdriver on the pink bit, there is a small ridge in the the pink bit to help you pull it towards you, pull gently but far enough to allow the key to be pulled up with a finger,
In the picture you can see what the pink things look like without the keys on, they hold the keys with the clip (arrow),
when the key is still on, it's this clip that you need to push in, to free the key...

when the key is free from the pink bit, move the key a bit towards you, ..done!

That's it!

[mjbrands]

Thanks for the image, I'm sure it will help when someone else attempts to do the same thing. I still find it weird we weren't really able to find a clear picture of what to do.

[wartaler]

Yes,

I was also surprised I couldn't find this information with clear pictures on the net..

Indeed I hope this thread is now clear enough for both Fatar waterfall (your picture) and Fatar hammer-action keyboards on how to remove the keys


...I managed to get rid of the squeaking by redistributing the lube, adding a bit here and there, also a put very tiny bit on the spring

Groeten,

Albert

[pablomastodon]

Thank you for the picture. I opened my Nord Stage Classic 88 today and lubricated the keys to get the squeak out. I couldn't have done it without this very helpful picture!

[FlametopFred]

Just in follow-up to Wartaler's photo - which was quite helpful.

I spent a solid 2 hours on this, stymied because I tend towards cautious. It took me a while to find any solid info on these particular Fatar keyboards. They are a bit tricky.

What follows are my steps. There may be other, better ways to do some of this. Here we go ...

Here is what I was repairing/replacing.

IMG_1196.JPG (190.18 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

IMG_1197.JPG (204.42 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

In this repair, I did not remove the circuit boards or keybed. I just opened the lid. Based on Wartaler's photo I wanted to see if this could be done. It could.

1) opening the lid

Turn the Nord Stage on its back.

IMG_1199.JPG (258.67 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

2) remove the THREE (3) bolts that secure the top-lid posts.

IMG_1198.JPG (214.86 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

3) lay the Nord down flat again. Remove the back bolts on the red metal lid.

IMG_1202.JPG (240.68 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

4) remove most BUT NOT ALL bolts from the end blocks (cheeks). Important to leave the ONE BOLT at the BOTTOM, BACK which serves as picot point for the lid.

IMG_1201.JPG (268.87 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

5) Lid swings up ~ CAUTIOUS CAREFULNESS cannot be stressed enough. Go slow.

IMG_1203.JPG (272.8 KiB) Viewed 6927 times

CONTINUING IN NEXT POST