Nord User Forum

[Hansistadt]

Hi there, does anyone know, where I get new encoders for my NS2? The first failed after only one year, the shop sent it to the distributor, ok, was for free, but it took 4 weeks - that's ages! Now, 2 more years, two more encoders don't do their jobs propperly anymore. This time I'll do it myself! Do I get those better quality? Thanks for reading, Hansi.

[Jusrgen]

In germany you can buy this encoder by conrad electronic.
360'°
24 points

[Hansistadt]

Great, thank you! Sorry for being stupid

[Ouldboy]

Got the same problem for several months. The encoder for the OSC-Dial doesn't switch hardly ever. But the encoder shown above doesn't seem to fit. In my Stage 2 there are only encoders with the numbers ECW1D-C24-SE0/049L (unsreened) and ECW1D-C24-SE0/070L (screened). The soldering connections show, in either case, upwards. I already took several trials to get one here in Germany. Contact to Clavia, Soundservice, Synthesizerservice, Bourns representative office, distributors and a specialized retailer. No success, so far. Only remains "Syntaur" (shipping costs!) and a new hot candidate: http://www.music-service.nl. They're delivering spare parts also to final users (according to their website), in contrast to Soundservice and Synthesizerservice. Furthermore, I've got a speculation, regarding the part numbers: Because the "Part Numbering System" (http://www.bourns.com/docs/Product-Data ... f?sfvrsn=0) doesn't give an answer to the "SE" in the number, I guess it just means "Sweden" or maybe "Special Edition" and 49 and 70 are just created randomly, to make it harder to compare for final users. So, my nonbinding advice for the OSC-Dial or program change encoder is ECW1D-C24-CC0024L (24-times screened, mounting thread, soldering holes, single flatted shaft 3/4"). Could fit... And this one should be easier to receive from electronic distributors. If here's an electronics technician, reading this, please correct or confirm.

Greetings

[Jusrgen]

Hallo
Please look by Distrelec
See my picture

[Ouldboy]

Thanks for the good hint with cutting the pins and solder short cables instead. Should also have had this simple idea before (shame on me). Now, I also had a closer look to the meaning of "anti-rotation lug". Primarily, I figured this to be something electronically. But finally I found out, it's just a mechanical thing (shame on me once more). So, it's also possible to solder ECW1J instead of ECW1D. Pooh!

[Mr_-G-]

Guys, for the future, to avoid getting posts deleted and threads locked, please post in English, so everybody understands what this is about.
While English is not everybody's mother tongue, we all agreed to this when we joined the forum, so really there is no excuse to leave everybody else guessing what this thread might be about.

There are online translation tools if you prefer, but please understand, there is nothing more boring than being in a forum where people posts things you cannot understand.

Also, it makes things more difficult to moderators. Behind the scenes we try to keep this place free of spam and inappropriate posts, but we cannot keep doing this in all languages.

Thank you.

[Mr_-G-]

Ah, OK. Thanks for that hint. Guess, I didn't read the conditions as well, as I should have done. Now and forever in English. Promise! See above.

[Ouldboy]

So guys, I would like to inform you about the further development. Might be helpful for some of you:
1. www.music-service.nl is the correct adress for spare parts for final consumers. So I decided to order two encoders. It wasn't so cheap, BUT cheaper than Syntaur.
2. I was able to REPAIR my broken encoder. What did I do? Well, first I took my Proxxon Micromot and removed the four plastic caps from the encoder very carefully with a small mill. So I was able to fold up the board with the wiper contact. Don't do this too fast, because the pins shouldn't break. The board itself looked OK, but on the dial I found one of the three springs bent a little. So I just took my forefinger and moved it back into a good position. But then I had a problem: How to reclose that crazy encoder? Thought about little screws or glue, but that didn't work. So I decided to remove the plastic pins completely and drilled four holes instead. But before you do this, you should remove the housing from the PCB and fix it in a small vice. After this I took a metal florist twine and drilled up the housing with the board with the wiper contact. Doesn't look very elegant, but the encoder works again!

Greetings